Kungsleden in Abisko National Park

Tranquility along the King’s Trail

To be able to spend a few days in a part of the world that is so beautiful and has meant so much to me, that has shaped an essential part of who I am today, is undoubtedly a privilege of the highest order.

I don’t know, but at 61 years old, it feels important to return to places like this.

I’ve tried to share my genuine and hopefully contagious joy and enthusiasm for being back in this extraordinary part of Sweden with many of the folks I’ve spoken with during yesterday’s hike along a stretch of the King’s Trail, Kungsleden, the very last part of the trail that has its grand finale here in Abisko (if the hike started in Nikkaluokta).

During last night’s dinner at Abisko Mountain Lodge, where I’m once again staying for a few nights, I enjoyed moose tartare, smoked Arctic char, and a delightful dessert called Crushed Dreams with crunchy cookies, blueberry jam, rhubarb, and a generous scoop of ice cream. Next to my table sat an American couple who also felt recharged and fueled up with inspiration from the fresh air and beauty of Lapland’s understated landscape.

Like most visitors, myself included, the couple were positively amazed by the vibrant colors and warm weather we are all enjoying right now. But perhaps most importantly, they were struck by the tranquility and inner respite they had experienced here in the very far north of Scandinavia.

In fact, that couple, both from the great state of Indiana, were so entranced that they had already started planning their next trip here.

And who hasn’t already done that?

Lapporten near Abisko Mountain Lodge

Below Lapporten & Abisko Mountain Lodge

Currently in Abisko National Park, staying at the cozy Abisko Mountain Lodge where I’m being pampered and served one delicious meal after another. The rustic, relaxed, and extraordinarily friendly atmosphere makes this unique hotel an ideal base for long hikes in the stunning and surprisingly warm fall weather.

I’ve visited Swedish Lapland many times – especially in my youth when I worked several seasons at Hotel Riksgränsen, the legendary ski resort west of here, near the Norwegian border. Though I stayed at Abisko Mountain Lodge as recently as February 2022, this is the very first time I’ve been to Lapland in the fall. Experiencing and documenting the autumn’s vibrant colors here has been on my bucket list for a long, long time.

As soon as I arrived from Kiruna yesterday, I headed out for a two-hour hike toward the iconic Čuonjávággi, or Lapporten – the dramatic formation in the mountain range that holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for the North Sami people.

For many Sami, Lapporten is seen as a portal to the underworld, a gateway for souls journeying to the afterlife. It is a sacred place where people can connect with spiritual energies. This area is steeped in legends involving supernatural beings and ancestral spirits, adding to the mystical aura of Lapporten and the breathtaking landscape that I have the privilege of being in right now.

#abiskonationalpark #abiskomountainlodge #abisko #kungsleden #lapporten #čuonjávággi #hiking #swedishlapland #lapland #lappland #norrbotten #kirunakommun #torneträsk#norrsken #abiskoöstra#vandring #kingspath #autumn#foilage #höstfärger #norrland

Flying with points on Scandinavian Airlines

SkyTeam vs Star Alliance

It’s been a long time since I was a Silver EuroBonus Member, but I still have some Star Alliance points to use up before SAS’s new SkyTeam frequent flyer miles program kicks in. It was kind of strange hearing the kind cabin crew mention the new cooperation, which I assume is part of the 20% ownership stake Air France/KLM has bought.

I shot this earlier today as the sun was rising somewhere just south of Stockholm. I was equally impressed with the beautiful landscape as I was with how surprisingly accurately my two-year-old phone was able to capture it.

Budapest

From the Archives: Budapest

As per usual, while looking for something entirely different in my photo archives, I found this shot of the Danube River and the Liberty Bridge in Budapest. I captured the scene with my very first Fuji camera, the initial iteration of the company’s x100 series. I eventually sold that 35mm fixed lens camera and have since replaced it with the x100v. I’d love to return to Budapest sometime soon. During my last visit in 2016, I wasn’t eating meat of any kind, and now that I am dabbling in carnivorism again, I need to experience some of the Hungarian capital’s famous culinary delights.

Joakim Lloyd Raboff on the island of Vrangö at Kajkanten Hotel enjoying cold beer and a shrimp sandwich

Happiness

If you ask me, this is what happiness looks like. Believe it or not, I’m relatively easy to please. Give me a sunny day by the sea, a delicious shrimp sandwich with mayo, onion, and avocado, and a tall glass of chilled beer. +++ =

Photo @charlotteraboff

#shrimpsandwich #livetpåenpinne #räkmacka #räkor #västkusten #kajkantenvrångö #göteborgsskärgård #bohuslän #hotel #hotellife #rayban #coldbeer #draftbeer #prippsblå #kallöl #openfacedsandwich #picturesque #sweden #västsvenskaturistrådet #lotshuset

Kajkanten Vrångö

Vrångö

I’m currently on assignment on the island of Vrångö, a few nautical miles  off Sweden’s west coast. I’m here to experience Kajkanten, an upscale hotel that offers guests an opportunity to stay in cozy boathouses in one of the car-free island’s harbors. The building with the black roof is where I’m writing this.

About 350 people call Vrångö home and so far, I’ve seen two small churches here but plenty of surprisingly large and truly beautiful wooden houses. The literal translation of Vrångö is Angry Island. I have yet to uncover why it’s called that.

Those Were The Days Reunion

Reunion in Göteborg: Those Were The Days

Gothenburg. Friday. Afternoon. Nostalgic.

After almost a week’s stopover in Malmö, it was time this morning to strap on the backpack again and board SJ’s express train to Gothenburg. Despite an almost empty train car, I got a seat facing backward, looking back – almost poetically symbolic – at what had already passed.

I was lucky enough to check into my hotel room extra early, so with my camera in hand, I set out on a long walk through Gothenburg, pleasantly warmed by the late summer sun and eager to capture some of the city’s most iconic spots in a beautiful morning light.

It would almost be a gross oversight if I didn’t eventually produce a beautiful photo book about Gothenburg. After all, I’ve had such a special relationship with this city – where I lived on and off for 20 years before moving south to Skåne and Malmö in the spring of 1998.

I can’t help but feel a bit nostalgic when I return and the sun is shining. What I don’t miss, however, is the persistent, gray drizzle that dominates the city’s weather for much of the year.

It was to my Aunt Lillemor in Gothenburg that I moved in 1978 when my mother passed away at Cedar Sinai Hospital in Los Angeles. And it was during those very first years in “Götet” that I got to know some of my oldest friends, three of whom I’ll be breaking bread with later tonight during this year’s second TWTD* reunion.

Some of our little group have known each other since childhood, but it was during our time at Munkebäcksgymnasiet that the bonds between us were truly forged. And despite living in different parts of the country, we’ve managed to meet up –albeit with varying frequency – for at least a couple of decades now.

Earlier this year, we ended up at Restaurant Lai-Wa, a classic Chinese restaurant in Göteborg that has been serving Szechuan Chicken and Fried Shrimp with Sweet and Sour Sauce since November 1975.

Tonight, it’ll be Greek food somewhere between Masthugget and Majorna.

It’s hardly going to be surprising that there will be many lively topics, varying in height, breadth, and depth. Above all, there will be plenty of laughter – often and hard. At each other, about aging, and about life’s countless absurdities. Hopefully, the restaurant’s other guests will be understanding.

Provided I survive tonight’s gathering… tomorrow it’s off to the cliffs, islets, and skerries.

I’m planning to spend a couple of nights in a converted boathouse on an island in the archipelago. Hopefully, there will be some salty dips in the Atlantic and at least one delicious shrimp sandwich while I’m there.

TWTD* = Those Were The Days

The latest installment in the Alien film franchise is Alien: Romulus

Alien: Romulus

I’ve been an avid fan of the Alien film franchise for as long as I can remember. From the moment I first saw Ridley Scott’s iconic 1979 film, I was hooked. It might have been the very first film I had seen where the sole survivor was a woman, played by the extraordinarily talented and gorgeous Sigourney Weaver.

The film’s eerie atmosphere and soundtrack, the terrifying xenomorph, and the intense, claustrophobic tension of the Nostromo crew’s fight for survival were unlike anything I’d ever seen, and I’ve eagerly followed every installment since. So, when my daughter Elle suggested that we go see Alien: Romulus as one of her belated birthday presents to me, I was absolutely thrilled.

As a lifelong fan, I knew this was not going to be an ordinary movie outing. Elle has grown up hearing my enthusiastic retellings of the Alien saga, and she’s even joined me in watching a couple of the movies when she was younger.

But this was different. This was a chance to experience the franchise’s latest chapter together.

From the very first frame, I was on the edge of my seat. The film is action-packed from start to finish, a non-stop rollercoaster ride that kept my pulse racing throughout. Director Fede Álvarez truly delivered with this ninth installment, seamlessly capturing the dark, suspenseful tone that made the original films so iconic. Set between the events of Alien (1979) and Aliens (1986), Romulus feels like a natural bridge between the two, filled with the kind of gritty, intense action that we fans crave.

What I appreciated most was how Álvarez managed to balance the familiarity of the original films with new, exciting elements. The tension was palpable, the stakes higher than ever, and both the old and new xenomorphs were utterly terrifying.

It was clear that Álvarez understood the essence of what made the original Alien so great, and he embraced the franchise’s roots with a few carefully placed homages to previous films as well as the original film’s concept artist HR Giger, while not shying away from pushing the story forward in new, thrilling directions.

Watching Alien: Romulus with Elle was a special experience. It was more than just a movie; it was a shared moment between father and daughter, a chance to pass on my love for the Alien universe to the next generation. Seeing her eyes widen at the intense scenes, and hearing her gasp at the unexpected twists – reminded me of my first encounter with the terrifying Alien Universe.

Öresund Bridge Sunset

Back in the Harbor

After a most eventful month characterized by detoxing and training Bikram Yoga, we had a very uneventful flight home from Phuket/Thailand via Abu Dhabi. It’s great to be back and once we passed the bridge (above) on the train yesterday morning, I realized that I have a ton of stuff to look forward to this fall. Including several book projects – as well as some short and longer trips.

Beautiful Bang Tao Beach in Phuket Thailand

Beautiful Bang Tao Beach

This is from the beautiful Bang Tao Beach in Phuket, Thailand. Nothing wrong with Kata, Karon, Patong or Rawai, but to me, it’s up north along the west coast of Phuket that the most pristine beaches can be enjoyed. Went for a jog earlier this morning and had most of the beach to myself. It’s a little slanty, but the sand is fairly compacted and conducive for a nice run.

It’s soon time to head back west. Each time I’m in Asia, regardless really of where I always learn something new and inspiring. During this trip, I realized that I’m still in pretty good shape. At least enough to complete my hot yoga challenge. Hope to back here in the East again really soon.

30-Day Hot Yoga Challenge at Kata Hot Yoga

Completed: Our 30-day Hot Yoga Challenge at Kata Hot Yoga
Inspired by my first visit to Kata Hot Yoga in 2018, Charlotte and I recently completed a 30-day Hot Yoga Challenge there. We did 30 classes within 30 days – and it’s been a transformative journey for us both.
At 61, I’ve tried many different types of exercises and sports. But practicing hot yoga at Kata has proven to be one of the healthiest choices I’ve made in a long time. The physical benefits are wonderful, I’m stronger, leaner, and much more tenuous after the 30-Day Challenge – and it’s also helped me with my mild arthritis. After my two visits, I am now completely hooked on Kata Hot Yoga’s authentic hot yoga experience.

The studio’s focus is on the original Bikram method that combines 26 postures and 2 breathing exercises in a 40C/105F heated room for 90 minutes. But what makes this studio even more special is Govert, the owner and head teacher. Before opening Kata Hot Yoga over 15 years ago, he worked directly with Bikram himself. Whatever you may think of Bikram Choudhury the man, there is no denying that his hot yoga practice is genius.

Govert’s deep understanding of all the 26 postures, combined with his light-hearted humor, makes each session both effective and fun. Likewise, Olivia, Jib, and the other instructors are just as dedicated, offering personalized feedback in real-time that helps everyone tweak their postures so all of us always got the most out of each class.

The studio is located just minutes from Kata Beach and is super-easy to reach. It has a large lounge, and changing/shower rooms and you can buy fresh coconuts, kombucha and water before/after class. The studio’s atmosphere is light and bright, and the outdoor space is perfect for relaxing and cooling down with a few scoops of cold water after an intense morning or evening class.

Charlotte and I were lucky to do our 30-Day Challenge during the studio’s annual Teacher Training course, which allowed us to meet amazing people from all walks of life and from all over the world. The positive energy in this studio is palpable, and the sense of community Govert has created is something truly remarkable.

I’ve practiced many different kinds of yoga in many places around the world. But to me, Kata Hot Yoga is the gold standard, the benchmark that offers a truly memorable experience. We can’t wait to return and continue fine-tuning our postures!

Kata Beach Morning

Kata Beach Morning

This is Kata Beach where I go for a short dip most mornings after my Hot Yoga class. The zero gravity feeling I get when lying in the waves and just floating about is tremendously relaxing.

raboff wedding anniversary

26th Wedding Anniversary

Thursday. Evening. Kata. Love & Cork.

Today, Charlotte and I are celebrating our twenty-sixth wedding anniversary. This year’s milestone is apparently called a “Cork Anniversary,” in Sweden, and if, like me, you’re wondering why cork, here are a few possible explanations.

It’s called a “Cork Anniversary” perhaps because the cork symbolizes flexibility and adaptability – qualities needed for a marriage to last. Cork is also a natural material that ages well and can recover even after stress– another fitting metaphor for a long-lasting marriage.

Moreover, cork floats, and anyone who has been married for a while knows that it’s important to stay afloat when the waves are stormy.

One of the younger American girls who is doing the teacher training and practices Hot Yoga with us daily here asked me yesterday what our recipe is for maintaining such a long relationship.

I gave her my standard answer: A combination of all our travels, our creative collaboration, a sizable dose of humor and the ability to laugh together and at each other.

Our travels give us inspiration and move us forward when we’ve been stuck in a rut for too long, and the creative process provides us with challenges that fine-tune our ability to cooperate and push our little company forward.

We decided a long time ago to forego career, prestige, and material possessions. Instead, we’ve focused fully on taking on new creative challenges and collecting new travel experiences together, along with the result of our finest collaboration: daughter, Elle Agnes.

It was to Phuket we went on our honeymoon in 1998, so it feels extra special to celebrate our anniversary here twenty-six years later.

Kata Beach Sunset

After Hot Yoga Sunset at Kata Beach

This is from last night several hours after my 20th consecutive Hot Yoga class. I captured this scene while waiting for Charlotte to come to the beach after her evening class. Charlotte and I got lucky when we picked the timing for a 30-day challenge as all of our classes are filled with wonderful teachers training students from all over the world, which we both see as hugely beneficial for us newbies.

After most morning classes, a few of us walked down to the beach for a zero-gravity cooling-down experience in the crystal clear Andaman Sea. I honestly can’t think of a better way to start my day.

After Yoga Breakfast

Hot Yoga Life

This morning I had my 20th Hot Yoga class in as many days. I did a double class yesterday to catch up with Charlotte. I’ll need to do a couple more doubles until I’m on par with my ambition to do 30 Hot Yoga classes within a month. So far, I’ve reduced my body fat by 6kg.

One of the friendly waiters at the hotel restaurant prepares my two breakfast boxes each morning, and I eat them (one with fruit, the other with veggies) with tremendous enthusiasm and the appetite of a vegetarian lion.

This is what today’s box contained: cucumber, broccoli, romaine lettuce, cornichons, bell pepper, onion, cherry tomatoes, egg, shredded carrots, and sweet corn.

Some reading this might wonder why we’ve traveled so far when Hot Yoga is available in Malmö and all over Europe.

Well, first of all, the main reason is that I’ve been at Kata Hot Yoga once before (2018), so I knew what to expect and could explain to Charlotte what she would have to reckon with and the results she could look forward to.

Secondly: staying at a nice hotel for a whole month and not having to deal with everyday chores like cleaning, washing clothes, buying, carrying, preparing, and cleaning up after three meals a day is, to put it mildly, an incredible treat.

Thirdly: though the vast majority of people we interact with here in Kata are not Thai (they are either expats, tourists, or migrant restaurant workers from Myanmar), we do love talking to Thais and seeing their beautiful smiles.

Fourthly, after all the many times we’ve visited Thailand – a total of 2.5 years of my life – eating an abundance of really tasty Thai food at quite reasonable prices (like everywhere else, food here is more expensive, but not nearly as much as in the EU and US) is still such a privilege. As previously mentioned, the Thai food available in Malmö (and most other places outside of Thaialnd) comes nowhere near what we get to enjoy daily here – at a cost that is 4 to 5 times lower.

Long Tail Boat Thailand

Long Tail Boat

When I first visited Thailand in the early fall of 1988, I immediately fell in love with the country’s long-tail boats. These wooden vessels, with their distinct, chugging engine sounds, were like nothing I’d ever seen before. The engines are often repurposed from old cars and trucks, making each boat feel uniquely rugged. They’re kind of the Swiss army knife of Thailand’s waterways – used for everything from fishing and transporting goods to shuttling tourists around. You’ll find versions of these most versatile boats not just in Thailand, but all over Southeast Asia.

Kata Beach, Phuket, Thailand.

Yoga, Kata Beach & Aging Together

Kata. Evening. Khao Pad Kratiem Jay & Love.

The other night, Charlotte and I had dinner together at the market near our hotel. We usually eat at different times since Charlotte practices Hot Yoga in the evening, and I take the morning session.

Sixteenth time in a row for me this morning, and tonight is Charlotte’s nineteenth. Crazy.

We’re doing this to feel better, to stay strong, and to keep being flexible as sixty-year-olds.

After all, it’s at this age, between 60 to 75, that we all hope to be healthy and fit – so that we can continue to travel, create, and enjoy life – without our bodies complaining too much. We know health issues will inevitably arrive, but why invite them earlier than necessary?

According to the hotel’s scale, I’ve lost just over four kilos in less than three weeks. It’s likely mostly burgers, beer, and bourbon that have been burned off – things I find a bit too easy to indulge, but much harder to shed.

My metabolism has definitely ramped up during these weeks, I can feel it. But the plan going forward is to not indulge more than what my body needs. To eat less with my taste buds and more with my brain. And to embrace the Japanese principle of “Hara Hachi Bu.”

Back to dinner.

As we sat there at the market, eating “Khao Pad Kratiem Jay,” garlic fried rice with vegetables, Charlotte suddenly said she loves me.

I looked up, smiled, and responded just as spontaneously, “And I love you because you love me.”

I’m not sure why I responded that way, but I meant it. Knowing that you are loved, and feeling loved, means so much to me. It gives me strength and security.

Sometimes, when I think about the fact that there is actually someone who loves me – despite all my shortcomings and quirky traits – I become deeply emotional.

It’s far from always that I love myself, and I tend to focus too much on all the baggage I still carry around and how it can still cast a long shadow over my dreams, ambitions, and joy in life.

In a week, we’ll celebrate our twenty-sixth wedding anniversary. I’ll be 84 and Charlotte 82 when we celebrate our golden anniversary in 24 years. I hope we make it. But if we don’t, there’s something comforting in knowing we’ve come this far.

Being an old couple, both figuratively and literally, sharing the strange turns of aging, exchanging experiences, and finding a common path forward makes the inevitable journey toward “the ultimate cliffhanger” a little easier.

Sure, I can sometimes be envious of friends who are single. That uncompromising existence without negotiations, debates, and democratic decisions must be nice. But for me, being single would probably end in disaster.

I know that I need to be guided, supported, brought down to earth, and praised when it’s warranted. And to hear that you are loved for who you are.

Just as I love Charlotte for who she is, sitting across from me at a bustling market during one of our many adventures together.

The photo is from last night’s spectacular sunset here in Kata Beach.

Kata Hot Yoga on Phuket Island in Thailand

Return to Kata Hot Yoga

Charlotte and I are currently in southern Thailand on the island of Phuket, smack in the middle of the village of Kata where we’re staying at a nice hotel just 300m to the beach. When we lived in Karon Beach, the next village north of Kata in 2001-2002, every Saturday, my local buddy Saran and I would go diving from Kata Beach. Though much else has changed here, the beach is still really pretty. Not diving this trip, but I hope to do some surfing.

This trip’s main objective is to gather experiences for a travel story about sports-focused vacations in general and Hot Yogain particular. And so, as part of the project, we’re taking a hot yoga class every day for about a month at Kata Hot Yoga run by Dutch guru Govert.

I’ve trained a bunch of different sports over the years, from competitive swimming and high diving to Kung Fu and Muay Thai. I’ve jogged, mountain biked, skied, played squash, and even taught Qigong. I’ve also trained in or at least tried the most common (western) yoga variants.

It’s perhaps not so much the poses per se, although they too are difficult to master, especially for me, a 61-year-old dude with chronic stiffness. But in combination with the high heat (≈ 40°C/105°F) and humidity (80-90%), each completed Hot Yoga (Bikram) class feels like quite the achievement. Above all, it serves as proof that I am still in relatively good shape.

I did 10 consecutive days in 2018 (here’s a video from that assignment) and felt fantastic afterward. My then slightly damaged skin (psoriasis) healed nicely, and my joints (arthritis) rejoiced. This year it’s same, same but different. I’m six years older and a bit less agile. But I’ll be dammed if I’m going to let my age get in the way of a challenge and an activity that has clearly been beneficial to my body.

It feels incredibly good to “invest” in one’s health. We train regularly at home, but here it’s a daily activity, and we get the added benefit of being able to indulge in the best that traditional Thai cuisine has to offer, typically served by friendly, smiling people.

Indulgence is a topic that I am often preoccupied with. I’m so much an expert at indulging that I have a hard time appreciate or finding the silver lining in the mundane, the bland, the daily meh.

So part of this trip, a Hot Yoga challenge, is to reevaluate and realign my sensibilities so that indulgence becomes more of an appreciated scarcity than a daily routine.

Portugal book by Joakim Lloyd Raboff

Portugal

“Portugal” is another new photography book that was coincidently published about the same time as “The Aging Man’s Survival Guide” and “Varvsstaden”.

This new book is the first in a series from places that have had a profound impact on me visually and where I’ve spent significant time.

The series’s concept is simple: create books with 75-80 inspiring images from amazing cities and places where I’ve spent significant time. Each book can serve as inspiration ahead of a visit or a way to remember how interesting and beautiful a destination is.

Portugal is available at www.amazon.com and www.amazon.se as well as www.amazon.de and www.amazon.co.uk

Varvsstaden

Varvsstaden: Shipyard Blues
At any given time of the year, I work with at least 2-3 parallel projects. Most recently, it’s book projects. I have about 40k high-resolution in images from a collection of about 300 destinations in 75 countries and about 200 commercial assignments. So I could easily spend the next 10 years creating beautiful photography books.
This latest book is a visual document about the shipyard area of Kockum Industries, now called, Varvsstaden, and Malmö’s Maritime Legacy. I was provided with (tethered) access and photographed many of the now-demolished workplaces in the area.
You can order it by clicking here.