I shot this yesterday in (of all places) Borås. I spent 24 hours there checking out a few of the city’s excellent museums, including Borås Konstmusuem, Abecita Popkonst & Foto, and Borås Textile Museum. It was my first visit to Borås in almost 45 years and even if I don’t remember Borås being much fun back in those days (early 1980s), I was pleasantly surprised to find how much the city has evolved – especially culturally. It’s still “small-town Sweden”, but in a charming way and with much less of the “Hickville” vibe some towns never shake off no matter how many cafés and shopping centers they have.
Part of my trip was also to do some soul-searching, which is something I tend to do every spring.
My view of life varies from one day to the next. that hasn’t changed much over time. My baseline is generally very positive and optimistic and I can usually deal with the slew of normal, everyday setbacks and obstacles that come my way without much effort. My survival strategy has always been to focus on keeping my journey going without dwelling on the stuff I can’t overcome or bypass and to not look too much or too closely in the rearview mirror.
Push on, move forward.
I try to keep my eye on the long game and the exciting, creative stuff that each day provides. Even if each is short-lived and only gives a tiny burst of happiness, by stringing all these small joys together and looking forward to experiencing them, I’m usually able to maintain a healthy mindset throughout my day.
I suppose I could redefine “problems” as “challenges” just to put a more positive spin on tougher stuff.
But tackling life’s inevitable hurdles and barriers might then become an exercise in semantics and minimize the achievement of coming up with more or less creative solutions that help me move forward.
I’ve always preferred taking on problems straight ahead and not letting them pile up.
Although some of my challenges can’t be resolved, especially chronic pain and general physical degradation that arrives as I age, I tend not to dwell too much on them unless they prevent me from doing really fun things, like skiing, which I will probably not be able to do this season as my back is still not completely healed.
I wrote this post mostly to remind myself of the book project “Happy Islands” that I’ve been thinking a lot about lately.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Boras-Textile-Museum.jpg17502000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-03-20 10:59:372025-03-20 14:00:40Life Thoughts & Borås Textile Museum
March 15, 2025 The Norrmans Castle in Skåne, Sweden
Charlotte and I rarely take time off from work and our visit to The Norrmans Castle (aka Häckeberga slott) was no exception. Though I can easily admit that it was an inspiring day at work. The word that springs to mind when I think of how to describe the castle’s whimsical interior is burlesque. But it’s also storylike and dreamy in an exotic, eccentric kinda of way. It’s a must-see.
We went for a long hike along and around the lake and though it was a bit frosty, the landscape surrounding the castle is just fabulous. A longer review and more images will be published on Charlotte’s hotel site, www.hotelladdict.se
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/The-Norrmans-Castle-in-Sweden.jpg13972000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-03-15 19:02:322025-03-15 19:02:32The Norrmans Castle in Skåne, Sweden
Lots of stuff going on right now. I don’t want to jinx anything, so this post will be about…popcorn…the single greatest snack in the known universe. I always make it with organic olive oil and seasoned with sea salt flakes. I use either a deep pot or a wide shallow pan, pour in the oil, pour in the kernels, put the lid on and turn the heat to eleven. No fussing. Just popping. Once there’s only a pop a second, take the pot or pan off the heat. Done.
I’ve tried explaining to younger folks about how there used to be double and even triple features when I was a kid in L.A. We’d pay about $1:50 in admission and maybe another buck for a bucket of buttered popcorn. In between the first and second feature, you could get a “refill” of popcorn and a tasty beverage for just fifty cents. I have vivid memories of riding my Schwinn home from a worn and torn movie theater on Hollywood Boulevard and feeling like I was OD:ing on greasy popped corn and one too many root beers.
My love of popcorn probably started when I was a really young kid. Don’t remember who, but someone introduced me to the make-it-yourself-on-a-stove Jiffy Pop Popcorn. Here’s how it worked: you’d grab this little aluminum pan, already filled with popcorn kernels and just the right amount of oil and salt. The top was sealed with a crimped aluminum foil lid, which sat flat at first. But that was the best part – because the second you put it on the gas stove and it heated up – while you were shaking it around – you’d hear the first little pop, then another, then an all-out explosion of popping.
Slowly, that foil top would start to rise, inflating like a giant silver balloon. You had to keep shaking it so the kernels wouldn’t burn, but once it was fully puffed up, you knew it was ready. Then came the big moment – ripping open that foil and watching steam escape as the smell from hot, buttery popcorn filled the kitchen. It was like making your own little popcorn show. No fancy machines, no microwave, just pure stovetop excitement. Jiffy Pop was the closest thing to movie theater popcorn at home before microwaves took over. And honestly? It was way more fun.
I met the fellow above on a street in Tirana, the capital of Albania. Needless to say we at least one thing in common.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Why-I-Love-Popcorn.jpg13442000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-03-10 10:24:352025-03-10 10:31:10Love of Popcorn
After nearly three decades of calling Malmö our base camp, it felt inevitable that I would one day curate my visual impressions and create a book about this remarkable city. I’ve documented Malmö’s streets, neighborhoods, parks, and people – capturing both the ordinary and the extraordinary moments that give the city its unique character. The new book is not just about iconic landmarks, but also about the textures, moods, and everyday beauty that have shaped my relationship with the city over the years.
Fittingly, the cover image features Malmö Castle (Malmöhus slott) – a historic Renaissance castle turned museum and one of Malmö’s most beloved cultural destinations.
For me, it’s a symbol of the city’s resilience and ability to survive, reinvent, and bridge its storied past with the present.
“Malmö” is my way of sharing the city I’ve come to know — a place of many contrasts, charm, and constant change. Pre-order the hardcover book by sending me an email: joakim@raboff.com
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Omslaget-till-boken-om-Malmo.jpg21162000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-03-02 06:35:432025-03-02 06:35:43Preview: My New Book About Malmö
February 26, 2025 Omonoia Square in Athens, Greece
This shot is from a corner of Omonoia Square in Athens, Greece. Omonoia is a mixed bag of architecture, people, and atmosphere. A visually interesting place during the daytime but if the rumors are true, not very nice at night where I’ve read the square and surrounding streets are riddled with some of the capital’s most sketchy folks.
Feeling a bit bipolar in Athens. Once you’ve ticked off all the easy stuff – like the ancient attractions, the ridiculously good food, the spontaneous openness and generosity of locals, and the fact that the city gets around 300 days of sunshine a year – Athens isn’t exactly an easy city to befriend.
It feels like Athens plays in the same league as Mumbai or Bangkok: brutally large, endlessly dirty, and unbelievably chaotic. The paradox is that it’s precisely all that stuff that makes me feel such a strong pull toward Athens. There’s always stuff to look at, document, admire, or lament, something to feel inspired by or to despise.
But is it really so strange that I’m drawn to the chaos, the grime, the cragginess? Maybe not.
Oddly enough, Athens feels much bigger than it actually is. Even bigger than many other major cities I’ve visited. With “just” 3.1 million residents, Athens ranks only eighth among Europe’s capitals. Its population is actually a third of London’s and barely half of Berlin’s or Madrid’s. This is partly due to Athens’ lack of skyscrapers and partly because the city has slowly but surely sprawled out over more than 3,000 years.
At least half of the buildings we see here are either in really bad shape or in need of some serious upkeep. I’m constantly reminded of Havana, Sofia, and Tbilisi – wonderfully beautiful capitals that are slowly deteriorating without authorities caring or being able to stop it.
The Greeks we’ve spoken to about Athens’ decaying state mostly just shake their heads and shrug. They explain the problems as being caused by deeply rooted nepotism, which operates relatively openly, and corruption and bribery scandals that follow one after another. Regular people try to make ends meet and balance life’s challenges between moments of hopelessness and cautious optimism, like when a new charismatic politician appears on the scene. Probably as they’ve been doing for thousands of years.
The Greeks love to talk about politics. Complaining about the country’s problems is almost as popular as playing backgammon. Just like in many other countries nowadays, people here are trying to find scapegoats to explain all the misfortunes and why life is so tough. We’ve heard about several scapegoats here: the Roma mafia, undocumented Pakistanis, Afghans who’ve been smuggled in to the country, and wealthy foreigners who buy up property, renovate it, and then make big money renting out IKEA-furnished apartments on Airbnb. We’re currently staying in one of those apartments. The owner is from Iran, and I haven’t yet found anything in the flat that wasn’t designed in Älmhult, Sweden.
This Friday, Greece will come to a standstill. Various unions will go on a nationwide strike to protest the train disaster of February 28, 2023. That was when a freight train and a passenger train collided head-on between the cities of Tempi and Evangelismos, killing 57 people. It was by far the country’s worst train disaster, and according to the strikers, the crash would never have happened if the Government had modernized the long-neglected railway safety system.
The Athens metro is among the most modern and well-maintained systems I’ve ever used. It’s clean, well-kept and the trains run on time. The metro was financed through loans from the European Investment Bank and supplied by French firm Alstom and German company Siemens.
Portion sizes at ordinary restaurants here are almost American-sized. You never leave the table without feeling properly full. At some places, you get a small bottle of raki before dinner and sometimes a little dessert after.
Most Athenians we chat with are super friendly. They’re curious about where we’re from, how long we’re staying, and what we think of the city. We love the country, the people, the food, the culture, and the climate, so some get a little overwhelmed by our enthusiasm. Surprisingly many have some kind of connection to Sweden, and almost everyone knows who Kojak was.
During winter, Athens suffers from chronic temperature inversion, where cold air settles over the city like a lid, trapping the exhaust fumes from the intense traffic. I haven’t seen many electric cars here. Most people drive diesel, and you can feel it in both your nose and lungs. I’ve already gone through a whole container of Ventolin.
The other day, we walked from Syntagma Square in the heart of the city all the way to the sea – a total of 25,000 steps. The road there wasn’t particularly inspiring, but it gave us a glimpse of a few of Athens’ suburbs. Not exactly uplifting, but it was humbling.
There’s a tiny Shell gas station a couple of blocks from our apartment. It’s probably the smallest Shell station I’ve ever seen. The man working there mostly sits inside his little office smoking. It can’t be more than 4 meters to the nearest gas or diesel pump. The other day we saw a grill with smoldering coal placed on the gas station’s lot. Amazing.
Walking along the sidewalk at a leisurely pace is no guarantee that you won’t get hit by a motorcycle here. Fortunately, we’re used to it from walks in among other Asian cities, Ho Chi Minh. You need to stay alert and definitely not drink too much raki or ouzo if you have a long walk home.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Omonoia-Square-Athens-Greece.jpg13332000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-26 06:05:152025-02-26 06:10:06Omonoia Square in Athens, Greece
February 22, 2025 The Sprawling City of Athens, Greece
How big is Athens? Massive. For some reason, the capital of Greece feels much larger to me than Tokyo, Bangkok, or even New York City, despite all of them being much bigger in terms of population. I think it’s because Athens sprawls endlessly with low-rise buildings instead of skyscrapers, making it stretch out rather than build upwards.
Standing on a hill like Lycabettus, where this view was taken yesterday, I could see miles of dense, uninterrupted concrete cityscape with no clear center, no big rivers cutting through, and only a few green spaces to break it up. Also, unlike cities with grids, Athens grew organically over 3,000 years, making it feel wonderfully chaotic, boundless, and never-ending.
As this is my third visit, my collection of images from Athens is now nearing what I’ll need to create a book from my visual experiences here – I no longer have any doubts that I’ll be able to do so. Also, there are so many derelict houses and buildings here, that I might just have to increase the page count of the future book about abandoned places and spaces.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/The-Sprawling-City-of-Athens-Greece-scaled.jpg17012560adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-22 08:42:402025-02-23 08:49:41The Sprawling City of Athens, Greece
February 22, 2025 Los Angeles Book on Airline Staff Rates
This is how Charlotte wanted me to promote my new book on her website (and its social media channels) for folks working in the airline industry: www.airlinestaffrates.com
The background you see here behind the book’s cover was shot during a helicopter tour of L.A., sponsored by the city’s tourism bureau while we were there to produce a guide for a Swedish travel magazine.
The pilot – a young, attractive yet not very tall woman – did an excellent job of flying us to all kinds of classic locations, including Los Angeles International Airport, which, to this day, I still don’t understand how she was granted permission to fly over.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/The-New-Los-Angeles-Book-on-amazon.jpg20002000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-22 07:26:262025-02-22 07:28:36Los Angeles Book on Airline Staff Rates
February 20, 2025 A Ponytail Before Brettos in Athens, Greece
A funny thing happened to me this afternoon. I was in a fancy-pants watch store checking out a few gorgeous timepieces that I will probably never be able to buy. The boutique’s owner was a nice bald guy, just a few years older than me. His voice was thick and raspy, which reminded me of Telly “Kojak” Savalas, the lolly-pop-sucking TV detective of Greek descent.
On the back of the watch store owner’s shiny bald head was a thick grey ponytail. While he was chatting me up, I noticed how the ponytail swung back and forth, back and forth as if it was attached and battery-powered. The intense swinging made it hard for me to focus on the owner’s sales schtick. There was music playing in the background, maybe a local radio station. As a song faded out, I heard David Paich’s familiar piano chords of the intro to “Georgy Porgy.” begin to play.
I just had to interrupt Mister Ponytail to tell him how great the tune is and that I want it played sometime during my funeral – whenever that day arrives. He looked at me and said, “My friend, you should be more focused on living than dying.”
“But I am, I am!” I told him. “I live every day as if it’s my last. And I totally believe in life before death. ”We both laughed and smiled as if we had simultaneously acknowledged that we had seen younger, braver, and more audacious days.
“So what song do you want played for your friends and family when you bite the dust?” I asked Mister Ponytail. “My friend,” he said with his deepest Kojak voice yet, “I have thought about this too. I think first they should play Thunderstruck… and then Highway to Hell.” Again, we laughed, and again, Mister Ponytail’s ponytail shook frantically behind his shiny bald head, extending my laugh a bit longer than his.
With no new watch on my wrist, I left the fancy-pants shop and took Charlotte to Brettos in Plaka, one of Athens’ oldest distilleries, where they produce and serve their ouzo. Once our bottle arrived, our waiter leaned in and whispered that if we didn’t finish it there, we could just take it with us when we left. “Great, but don’t ever try that if you go to Sweden,” I told her, and we all laughed. Needless to say, we left the bottle there as it was empty.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Brettos-Athens-Greece.jpg14172000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-20 19:49:132025-02-21 06:43:25A Ponytail Before Brettos in Athens, Greece
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Los-Angeles-Book-Cover.jpg20002000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-18 09:07:362025-02-18 09:08:28Published: Book about L.A.
February 18, 2025 Acropolis Wedding in Athens, Greece
The number of weddings I’ve been hired to photograph is nearly equal to the number I’ve turned down.
It’s something rarely discussed, but despite all the advancements in gear and software, professional photography still comes with many unknowns and uncontrollable variables.
The key to any successful shoot is minimizing as many of those unknowns as possible—and with weddings, I’ve always found that to be exceptionally difficult.
More than anything, the sheer level of expectations from the couple (especially the bride and her mother) makes wedding photography one of the most challenging assignments I’ve ever taken on.
When I saw a photographer capturing a stunning bride and her handsome groom beneath the sunlit Acropolis yesterday evening, I actually felt a little stressed on her behalf.
She’s probably spending the next few days sifting through hundreds—if not thousands—of photos. Phew.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Wedding-Acropolis-Athens-Greece.jpg14322000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-18 07:11:272025-02-18 07:11:27Acropolis Wedding in Athens, Greece
Since Charlotte is soon celebrating her 60th birthday and has been a devoted fan of the TV series White Lotus since season 1, I just looked up what it would cost for us to stay a few nights at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui in Thailand, where the latest season (3) was filmed.
Well, it turns out that at $10,000 per night, we won’t be staying there anytime soon.
The first time I visited Koh Samui was in the fall of 1988 – almost to the date two years after my father Ernest had passed away in his small apartment in Los Angeles. I had received an irresistible job offer from a guy named Peter Forsberg, an acquaintance from Göteborg, Sweden who turned out to own a simple bungalow place on La Mai Beach on Koh Samui, near where White Lotus was filmed, an island in the southeast of Thailand. Peter wanted me to be informally in charge of guest relations. In return, I’d get a bungalow by the beach, free meals, and a small monthly tab at the hotel’s bar.
In the fall of 1988, a bungalow at Golden Sands cost a mere $5 per night, including a basic English breakfast.
There was no airport on Koh Samui at that time, just a rickety ferry from the mainland town of Surat Thani.When you finally stepped off the boat – on shaky legs – and onto the concrete pier in Nathon (Koh Samui’s only real village back then), a small armada of dusty old Toyota pickups were waiting to take visitors to the island’s various beaches.
“Laa-Mai! Laa-Mai! Laa-Mai!” “Cha-weng! Cha-weng! Cha-weng!” shouted the hurried ladies collecting the fare. I think it was 10 baht (about 20 cents) to get from Nathon to La Mai Beach.
Once the backpacks were tossed onto the roof of the Toyota and all of us passengers had climbed into the back – gripping whatever we could while the truck sped over the island’s bumpy dirt roads – our island adventure could begin.
I ended up staying at Peter’s bungalow place for six months before returning to Sweden.
In 2005, Charlotte, Elle, and I lived on Koh Samui for half a year, with several friends visiting us at our little rented house. Charlotte says we paid about $500 per month for the house. The owner, an older American guy named Gary had retired in Thailand after a career as an engineer at General Electric in Chicago or Detroit. I still remember Gary vividly, but mostly for his struggle to pronounce my name: “Joe-Kim? Joe-Chim?”
It strikes me now that if I add up all the times I’ve been on Koh Samui, I’ve spent about one year of my life there and I feel eternally grateful to have experienced Koh Samui when the island was still just a backpacker’s paradise. And even if I probably won’t ever be checking into the Four Seasons, there is still a fair chance that I will one day revisit the lush island of Koh Samui – and while there, stop by for a refreshing drink at the hotel’s bar, without breaking the bank.
I’ve run through New York’s Central Park, jogged past the huge lotus flower pond in Bangkok’s Benjasiri Park, and trotted many miles along the shoreline between Santa Monica and Venice Beach. Heck, I’ve even gone for a short jog in Death Valley, clocked several miles in Da Nang’s My Khe neighborhood, and pounded the pavement in Camp’s Bay, South Africa, with the Atlantic roaring beside me.
So when Charlotte suggested a 5k morning run up the hill to the sacred temple of the Acropolis and then beyond into Koukaki, I didn’t hesitate – though I did send up a quick prayer to the Greek gods, begging them to grant my back the strength and stamina to survive today’s run.
And what do you know? Zeus & Co must have been feeling generous this morning – and a glorious, sweat-drenched 5K jog through ancient Athens is now part of my running history.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Charlotte-Joakim-Jogging-to-Acropolis-in-Athens-Greece-scaled.jpg22022560adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-15 09:40:542025-02-15 09:40:54Jogging to Acropolis in Athens, Greece
February 15, 2025 A Spontaneous Model Shoot in Plaka, Athens, Greece
You know those generous people who offer to take your picture when the light is perfect or the view is breathtaking – or both? I’m one of them.
In fact, I do it all the time, and yesterday while wandering the narrow streets and steep steps of Plaka just below the Acropolis here in Athens, was no exception.
I find it absolutely fascinating how the “selfie” has evolved into full-blown photo shoots, where people travel far and wide to iconic spots, dress up from top-to-toe, and then meticulously stage scenes for their real – or imagined – “influencees.”
That’s where I step in – quite literally. I reason that the least I can do is help these folks capture a decent image of themselves and, in the process, I try to do justice to the incredible scenery they’ve (and I) traveled so far to see.
Fortunately, thanks in no small way to the introduction of camera phones equipped with wide-angle lenses a few years ago, the selfie stick has become a rarity.
Oh, and I have no idea who this random woman was, where she was from, or if she was a famous social media personality. I just felt obligated to lend her a hand by capturing her striking a pose against a strikingly beautiful background.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/A-Spontaneous-Model-Shoot-in-Plaka-Athens-Greece-scaled.jpg25601920adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-15 06:38:542025-02-15 09:45:15A Spontaneous Model Shoot in Plaka, Athens, Greece
February 14, 2025 Aristotle & the Demi$e of Democracy (and Society)
Aristotle argued that a city must be small enough for its citizens to know one another, to gather, debate, and actively participate in their governance.
If and when a city grows too big, it fractures, and democracy becomes an illusion. If you cannot see, hear, and understand the will of the people around you, how can you rule fairly and justly?
I wholeheartedly agree with Aristotle.
After traveling to so many mega-cities, including Tokyo, New Delhi, Nairobi, New York, L.A. Istanbul, London, Bangkok and Tokyo, I have come to the conclusion that I have been incredibly naive in thinking that we will be able to stop, let alone reverse, the ongoing climate crisis.
Sounds like a copout, I know. But at some point we need to let the “kumbaya” fade away and get real about what we’re facing and then face straight on. Removing plastic straws and driving EV:s are not going to make a difference. Not really.
The wheels of industry have become too large, the machinery too complicated, and the world too cynical for more significant change than what a little greenwashing can muster.
Being in Athens right now feels extraordinarily fitting, as this city (as seen in my photo above) is enormously big and must be incredibly complicated to manage and maintain.
The sheer scale of Athens, the layers of history, and the density of life here make it once again clear to me just how complex urban governance and all that comes with it, truly is.
Still, I am optimistic about the planet itself surviving. The Earth has endured far worse than us, and it will continue long after we’re gone.
So, instead of drowning in despair over the inevitable demise of society as we know it in a few generations, I think we should appreciate our time here as a species and go with the flow. That’s not to say that I think we should get even more diabolical in order to accelerate the downfall. I’m not even sure we could if we tried. But the collective guilt many of us feel, myself included, is not helping anything or anybody. Least of all this blue rock we call home.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Athens-Capital-of-Greece.jpg17562000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-14 08:05:362025-02-14 08:07:13Aristotle & the Demi$e of Democracy (and Society)
Here’s one of the hundreds (if not thousands) of feral kittykats “guarding” the sacred grounds of the Acropolis. Built a mind-boggling 2400 years ago, in its heyday, the Acropolis of Athens served mostly as a religious and ceremonial hub, dedicated to Athena, the city’s patron goddess.
Though Athens is one of the most cat-friendly capitals in the world, these furry felines were not originally native to Greece and have not been part of Greek mythology. Ancient Greeks and Romans did however import them to Athens from Egypt (where they were worshiped as deities) to control rats and other rodents. Hats off to cats for that important role.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Cats-of-Athens.jpg17382000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-12 12:47:172025-02-12 12:47:17Cats of Athens
Despite the raw cold that has hovered over the city for almost a week, it’s finally starting to warm up. This afternoon, the sun broke through for a while – just enough for me to stash away my hat.
Whenever I stay in a place for a longer period, I start by slowly expanding my walking radius until I get a feel for the area. It’s taken a little longer in Athens because the city is so wonderfully winding and labyrinthine.
I love getting lost here. The moment I feel confident about my location, I deliberately head in the opposite direction and let chance take over. It almost always leads to something exciting and inspiring. The idea of missing out on something is just an illusion. I’m more drawn to discovering a comfortable everyday rhythm than ticking off sights from a guidebook.
I never feel more alive than when I stumble upon something unexpected. I find it hard to simply be in the moment – I have to keep moving, tracking, exploring. Feeding my curiosity with new experiences.
Cities where you have to keep an eye on the pavement to avoid cracks, holes, and dog poop tend to have a lot of soul. Athens is no exception.
I think that a certain degree of decay is a good sign, and Athens’ 3,400-year-old history is visible everywhere. Excavations, small and large, pop up on many streets.
This cosmopolitan megacity exists in a state of chaos where decay and modernity coexist as neighbors. Though, to be honest, there’s far more decay than new stuff.
The position of city planner in Athens has probably been vacant for centuries.
Many beautiful yet utterly crumbling stone houses are in various stages of renovation. A bartender lamented that Athens is quickly turning into another Airbnb city. Rents are increasing so much that it’s becoming hard for locals to afford housing. Young Greeks can no longer afford to leave home.
The patina of Athens reminds me of other Southern European cities we’ve lived in over the years – Palma, Málaga, Lisbon. But really, it was Athens that set the template for most of them.
I’m surprised at how easy it is to reach different neighborhoods in central Athens – Plaka, Syntagma, Kolonaki, Psiri, and Exarchia. The city is big, but if, like us, you enjoy walking for hours, it’s entirely possible to explore on foot.
It’s humbling to stroll through the same streets where Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle once walked – the old men who came up with the whole idea of democracy.
Though I imagine those ancient Greeks are rolling in their graves right now, as the new U.S. president and his sycophantic entourage blatantly ignore and undermine their country’s constitutional democratic principles. It’s the behavior of someone drunk on power. He acts as if he were a king – but in the end, he’s just a clown.
There’s something special about cities built on hills. They may not be the easiest to navigate, but if people went through the trouble of building a city on uneven terrain, the place must have been interesting enough to be worth it.
An olive tasting in Monastiraki costs €4 / $4.30 / 45 SEK, and you get to try around twenty different kinds. Apparently, there are over a hundred varieties in total.
Yesterday, I discovered that a double Maker’s Mark bourbon and a large Nymph beer cost 113 SEK / €10 / $10.90 at our local bar. One of the bar’s co-owners has a daughter who will be interning at the Greek embassy in Stockholm this spring.
When I mentioned that I live in Malmö, she treated me to a shot of cha-cha and another beer. It turned into a slightly more festive after-work drink than I had originally planned.
A loaf of Greek sourdough bread costs 11 SEK / €1 / $1.05, and 25–30 large, meaty Chalkidiki olives go for 25 SEK / €2.20 / $2.40.
The sturdy Albanian woman who works at the neighborhood deli has started recognizing me. Every single one of her recommendations has been spot on. Her sister lives in Södertälje.
Athens is not short on stray cats. They rule the streets, and the little lapdogs are terrified of them.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Technopolis.jpg16382000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-09 11:03:302025-02-09 11:03:30Athens: Thoughts from Walks
First day in Athens. Got in kinda late yesterday after my flight from @copenhagenairport and used whatever energy I had left to walk to the nearest local market and stock up on delicious olives (three kinds, no less), tasty feta cheese, the creamiest yogurt, and other Greek essentials.
The one-bedroom apartment Charlotte rented for the month is roomy and comfy and located in Thissio – a neighborhood with a very local vibe – yet close to Acropolis and other ancient sites, some of which I visited today (like the view above from lunchtime today).
This is my third visit to Athens but my first off-season stay. Love this city’s contrast. It’s gritty, modern and ancient all at once. Charlotte says Athens is our new Lisbon just as Lisbon was our new Malaga a few years ago. From a culinary perspective, while not as “fancy” as say, French or Italian cuisines, Greek food is arguably the healthiest of all the countries around the Mediterranean. And I’ve always experienced the Greeks as friendly, welcoming, and generous people.
Going to complete my book about phobias while here and then begin compiling a book of personal stories which I’ve been inspired to create after that my cousin Laura @brushedthread so generously shared her limited edition “Little Memoirs” with me a couple of years ago.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Storm-Over-Athens-scaled.jpg20822560adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-04 16:27:272025-02-04 16:27:27Storm over Athens
The vast majority of my walks in Osaka were intentionally serendipitous. I had a rough idea of where I was within the city’s boundaries, but I made a conscious effort to explore places and find spaces that in one way or another appealed to me in an unconventional way. Osaka’s density and intensity offered plenty of opportunities, just as long as I stayed clear of tourist venues and kept to where locals were walking, driving, riding, working, and living.
https://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/Osaka-Street-Lines.jpg13672000adminhttps://raboff.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Joakim-logo-white-drop-shadow-01.pngadmin2025-02-02 14:15:592025-02-02 14:15:59Streets of Osaka
Back in cold, grey Scandinavia for a short spell. Went out for a long-ish run yesterday morning, my first in over 5 months. Felt great. Especially after a marathon flight path home: Osaka-Bangkok-New Delhi-Copenhagen (KIX-BKK-DEL-CPH) with a 16 hour stopover in India.
I walked about 100,000 steps while in Japan, much of it serendipitously. Above is a view during the intense yet orderly rush hour when many Osakians have just got off from work and are either heading home or to their favorite izakayas for dinner with colleagues.
• Osaka is a busy city yet suprisingly easy to navigate on foot. One of the main streest, Midosuji Boulevard (御堂筋), runs from Umeda to Tsutenkaku Tower, passing through several cool districts like Namba, Shinsaibashi, and Tennoji. This makes it both easy and fun to allow yourself to get lost in the alleys and side streets. You’ll always find your way back to Midosuji.
• On average, I’ve walked 24,000 steps per day, which is 22,000 more than I could manage in early December when my sciatica was at its worst.
• On Osaka’s sidewalks, people follow left-side traffic rules, but cyclists dominate the centerline, happily slaloming through pedestrians at breakneck speeds.
• It’s clear that Japanese people take pride in their work—no matter what they do—but perhaps even more so in jobs that aren’t particularly prestigious. Apparently, this is called “Hokori” (誇り). Such an attitude must bring inner peace but might also hold some people back from reaching their full potential.
• I now understand why Osaka is called “Japan’s Kitchen.” There are restaurants everywhere—about 45,000 in Greater Osaka. Not surprising, considering Osakans seem to eat at least one meal out every day.
• Women working in hotels, shops, and restaurants (or heard over public PA systems) have eerily childlike voices.
• January is a perfect time to visit Japan. Being here off-season means I’ve often been the only “gaijin” (foreigner) around, enjoying a little extra help and great service.
• I’ve had a week of blue skies and brilliant sunshine, chilly mornings (4-5°C), and been able to shed my hat, gloves, and scarf by midday.
• Many more people speak English now compared to the first time Elle, Charlotte, and I were in Japan 16 years ago. Maybe the 1990s sitcom Friends has contributed to an improved understanding of English here.
• I discovered that the nearest Lawson (convenience store) to my hotel has as wide a selection of sake as it does instant noodles.
• I wonder if Japan currently has the most beautiful paper currency in the world. The new ¥1,000 bill features Dr. Kitasato Shibasaburō, a bacteriologist, and the iconic The Great Wave off Kanagawa by Katsushika Hokusai.
• From time to time, I glance up at the skyscrapers and almost expect “Gojira” (呉爾羅) to appear with smoky nostrils and his playful son in tow.
• Bourdain was absolutely right when he described Lawson’s egg sandwiches as unnaturally fluffy, insanely delicious, and inexplicably addictive.
• Eventually, this will turn into a fine little book about my impressions from visits to Okinawa, Tokyo, Kyoto, and now Osaka and Hiroshima. Stay tuned.
Life Thoughts & Borås Textile Museum
I shot this yesterday in (of all places) Borås. I spent 24 hours there checking out a few of the city’s excellent museums, including Borås Konstmusuem, Abecita Popkonst & Foto, and Borås Textile Museum. It was my first visit to Borås in almost 45 years and even if I don’t remember Borås being much fun back in those days (early 1980s), I was pleasantly surprised to find how much the city has evolved – especially culturally. It’s still “small-town Sweden”, but in a charming way and with much less of the “Hickville” vibe some towns never shake off no matter how many cafés and shopping centers they have.
Part of my trip was also to do some soul-searching, which is something I tend to do every spring.
My view of life varies from one day to the next. that hasn’t changed much over time. My baseline is generally very positive and optimistic and I can usually deal with the slew of normal, everyday setbacks and obstacles that come my way without much effort. My survival strategy has always been to focus on keeping my journey going without dwelling on the stuff I can’t overcome or bypass and to not look too much or too closely in the rearview mirror.
Push on, move forward.
I try to keep my eye on the long game and the exciting, creative stuff that each day provides. Even if each is short-lived and only gives a tiny burst of happiness, by stringing all these small joys together and looking forward to experiencing them, I’m usually able to maintain a healthy mindset throughout my day.
I suppose I could redefine “problems” as “challenges” just to put a more positive spin on tougher stuff.
But tackling life’s inevitable hurdles and barriers might then become an exercise in semantics and minimize the achievement of coming up with more or less creative solutions that help me move forward.
I’ve always preferred taking on problems straight ahead and not letting them pile up.
Although some of my challenges can’t be resolved, especially chronic pain and general physical degradation that arrives as I age, I tend not to dwell too much on them unless they prevent me from doing really fun things, like skiing, which I will probably not be able to do this season as my back is still not completely healed.
I wrote this post mostly to remind myself of the book project “Happy Islands” that I’ve been thinking a lot about lately.
The Norrmans Castle in Skåne, Sweden
Charlotte and I rarely take time off from work and our visit to The Norrmans Castle (aka Häckeberga slott) was no exception. Though I can easily admit that it was an inspiring day at work. The word that springs to mind when I think of how to describe the castle’s whimsical interior is burlesque. But it’s also storylike and dreamy in an exotic, eccentric kinda of way. It’s a must-see.
We went for a long hike along and around the lake and though it was a bit frosty, the landscape surrounding the castle is just fabulous. A longer review and more images will be published on Charlotte’s hotel site, www.hotelladdict.se
Love of Popcorn
Lots of stuff going on right now. I don’t want to jinx anything, so this post will be about…popcorn…the single greatest snack in the known universe. I always make it with organic olive oil and seasoned with sea salt flakes. I use either a deep pot or a wide shallow pan, pour in the oil, pour in the kernels, put the lid on and turn the heat to eleven. No fussing. Just popping. Once there’s only a pop a second, take the pot or pan off the heat. Done.
I’ve tried explaining to younger folks about how there used to be double and even triple features when I was a kid in L.A. We’d pay about $1:50 in admission and maybe another buck for a bucket of buttered popcorn. In between the first and second feature, you could get a “refill” of popcorn and a tasty beverage for just fifty cents. I have vivid memories of riding my Schwinn home from a worn and torn movie theater on Hollywood Boulevard and feeling like I was OD:ing on greasy popped corn and one too many root beers.
My love of popcorn probably started when I was a really young kid. Don’t remember who, but someone introduced me to the make-it-yourself-on-a-stove Jiffy Pop Popcorn. Here’s how it worked: you’d grab this little aluminum pan, already filled with popcorn kernels and just the right amount of oil and salt. The top was sealed with a crimped aluminum foil lid, which sat flat at first. But that was the best part – because the second you put it on the gas stove and it heated up – while you were shaking it around – you’d hear the first little pop, then another, then an all-out explosion of popping.
Slowly, that foil top would start to rise, inflating like a giant silver balloon. You had to keep shaking it so the kernels wouldn’t burn, but once it was fully puffed up, you knew it was ready. Then came the big moment – ripping open that foil and watching steam escape as the smell from hot, buttery popcorn filled the kitchen. It was like making your own little popcorn show. No fancy machines, no microwave, just pure stovetop excitement. Jiffy Pop was the closest thing to movie theater popcorn at home before microwaves took over. And honestly? It was way more fun.
I met the fellow above on a street in Tirana, the capital of Albania. Needless to say we at least one thing in common.
Preview: My New Book About Malmö
After nearly three decades of calling Malmö our base camp, it felt inevitable that I would one day curate my visual impressions and create a book about this remarkable city. I’ve documented Malmö’s streets, neighborhoods, parks, and people – capturing both the ordinary and the extraordinary moments that give the city its unique character. The new book is not just about iconic landmarks, but also about the textures, moods, and everyday beauty that have shaped my relationship with the city over the years.
Fittingly, the cover image features Malmö Castle (Malmöhus slott) – a historic Renaissance castle turned museum and one of Malmö’s most beloved cultural destinations.
For me, it’s a symbol of the city’s resilience and ability to survive, reinvent, and bridge its storied past with the present.
Omonoia Square in Athens, Greece
This shot is from a corner of Omonoia Square in Athens, Greece. Omonoia is a mixed bag of architecture, people, and atmosphere. A visually interesting place during the daytime but if the rumors are true, not very nice at night where I’ve read the square and surrounding streets are riddled with some of the capital’s most sketchy folks.
Feeling a bit bipolar in Athens. Once you’ve ticked off all the easy stuff – like the ancient attractions, the ridiculously good food, the spontaneous openness and generosity of locals, and the fact that the city gets around 300 days of sunshine a year – Athens isn’t exactly an easy city to befriend.
It feels like Athens plays in the same league as Mumbai or Bangkok: brutally large, endlessly dirty, and unbelievably chaotic. The paradox is that it’s precisely all that stuff that makes me feel such a strong pull toward Athens. There’s always stuff to look at, document, admire, or lament, something to feel inspired by or to despise.
But is it really so strange that I’m drawn to the chaos, the grime, the cragginess? Maybe not.
Oddly enough, Athens feels much bigger than it actually is. Even bigger than many other major cities I’ve visited. With “just” 3.1 million residents, Athens ranks only eighth among Europe’s capitals. Its population is actually a third of London’s and barely half of Berlin’s or Madrid’s. This is partly due to Athens’ lack of skyscrapers and partly because the city has slowly but surely sprawled out over more than 3,000 years.
At least half of the buildings we see here are either in really bad shape or in need of some serious upkeep. I’m constantly reminded of Havana, Sofia, and Tbilisi – wonderfully beautiful capitals that are slowly deteriorating without authorities caring or being able to stop it.
The Greeks we’ve spoken to about Athens’ decaying state mostly just shake their heads and shrug. They explain the problems as being caused by deeply rooted nepotism, which operates relatively openly, and corruption and bribery scandals that follow one after another. Regular people try to make ends meet and balance life’s challenges between moments of hopelessness and cautious optimism, like when a new charismatic politician appears on the scene. Probably as they’ve been doing for thousands of years.
The Greeks love to talk about politics. Complaining about the country’s problems is almost as popular as playing backgammon. Just like in many other countries nowadays, people here are trying to find scapegoats to explain all the misfortunes and why life is so tough. We’ve heard about several scapegoats here: the Roma mafia, undocumented Pakistanis, Afghans who’ve been smuggled in to the country, and wealthy foreigners who buy up property, renovate it, and then make big money renting out IKEA-furnished apartments on Airbnb. We’re currently staying in one of those apartments. The owner is from Iran, and I haven’t yet found anything in the flat that wasn’t designed in Älmhult, Sweden.
This Friday, Greece will come to a standstill. Various unions will go on a nationwide strike to protest the train disaster of February 28, 2023. That was when a freight train and a passenger train collided head-on between the cities of Tempi and Evangelismos, killing 57 people. It was by far the country’s worst train disaster, and according to the strikers, the crash would never have happened if the Government had modernized the long-neglected railway safety system.
The Athens metro is among the most modern and well-maintained systems I’ve ever used. It’s clean, well-kept and the trains run on time. The metro was financed through loans from the European Investment Bank and supplied by French firm Alstom and German company Siemens.
Portion sizes at ordinary restaurants here are almost American-sized. You never leave the table without feeling properly full. At some places, you get a small bottle of raki before dinner and sometimes a little dessert after.
Most Athenians we chat with are super friendly. They’re curious about where we’re from, how long we’re staying, and what we think of the city. We love the country, the people, the food, the culture, and the climate, so some get a little overwhelmed by our enthusiasm. Surprisingly many have some kind of connection to Sweden, and almost everyone knows who Kojak was.
During winter, Athens suffers from chronic temperature inversion, where cold air settles over the city like a lid, trapping the exhaust fumes from the intense traffic. I haven’t seen many electric cars here. Most people drive diesel, and you can feel it in both your nose and lungs. I’ve already gone through a whole container of Ventolin.
The other day, we walked from Syntagma Square in the heart of the city all the way to the sea – a total of 25,000 steps. The road there wasn’t particularly inspiring, but it gave us a glimpse of a few of Athens’ suburbs. Not exactly uplifting, but it was humbling.
There’s a tiny Shell gas station a couple of blocks from our apartment. It’s probably the smallest Shell station I’ve ever seen. The man working there mostly sits inside his little office smoking. It can’t be more than 4 meters to the nearest gas or diesel pump. The other day we saw a grill with smoldering coal placed on the gas station’s lot. Amazing.
Walking along the sidewalk at a leisurely pace is no guarantee that you won’t get hit by a motorcycle here. Fortunately, we’re used to it from walks in among other Asian cities, Ho Chi Minh. You need to stay alert and definitely not drink too much raki or ouzo if you have a long walk home.
The Sprawling City of Athens, Greece
How big is Athens? Massive. For some reason, the capital of Greece feels much larger to me than Tokyo, Bangkok, or even New York City, despite all of them being much bigger in terms of population. I think it’s because Athens sprawls endlessly with low-rise buildings instead of skyscrapers, making it stretch out rather than build upwards.
Standing on a hill like Lycabettus, where this view was taken yesterday, I could see miles of dense, uninterrupted concrete cityscape with no clear center, no big rivers cutting through, and only a few green spaces to break it up. Also, unlike cities with grids, Athens grew organically over 3,000 years, making it feel wonderfully chaotic, boundless, and never-ending.
As this is my third visit, my collection of images from Athens is now nearing what I’ll need to create a book from my visual experiences here – I no longer have any doubts that I’ll be able to do so. Also, there are so many derelict houses and buildings here, that I might just have to increase the page count of the future book about abandoned places and spaces.
Los Angeles Book on Airline Staff Rates
This is how Charlotte wanted me to promote my new book on her website (and its social media channels) for folks working in the airline industry: www.airlinestaffrates.com
The background you see here behind the book’s cover was shot during a helicopter tour of L.A., sponsored by the city’s tourism bureau while we were there to produce a guide for a Swedish travel magazine.
The pilot – a young, attractive yet not very tall woman – did an excellent job of flying us to all kinds of classic locations, including Los Angeles International Airport, which, to this day, I still don’t understand how she was granted permission to fly over.
A Ponytail Before Brettos in Athens, Greece
A funny thing happened to me this afternoon. I was in a fancy-pants watch store checking out a few gorgeous timepieces that I will probably never be able to buy. The boutique’s owner was a nice bald guy, just a few years older than me. His voice was thick and raspy, which reminded me of Telly “Kojak” Savalas, the lolly-pop-sucking TV detective of Greek descent.
On the back of the watch store owner’s shiny bald head was a thick grey ponytail. While he was chatting me up, I noticed how the ponytail swung back and forth, back and forth as if it was attached and battery-powered. The intense swinging made it hard for me to focus on the owner’s sales schtick. There was music playing in the background, maybe a local radio station. As a song faded out, I heard David Paich’s familiar piano chords of the intro to “Georgy Porgy.” begin to play.
I just had to interrupt Mister Ponytail to tell him how great the tune is and that I want it played sometime during my funeral – whenever that day arrives. He looked at me and said, “My friend, you should be more focused on living than dying.”
“But I am, I am!” I told him. “I live every day as if it’s my last. And I totally believe in life before death. ”We both laughed and smiled as if we had simultaneously acknowledged that we had seen younger, braver, and more audacious days.
“So what song do you want played for your friends and family when you bite the dust?” I asked Mister Ponytail. “My friend,” he said with his deepest Kojak voice yet, “I have thought about this too. I think first they should play Thunderstruck… and then Highway to Hell.” Again, we laughed, and again, Mister Ponytail’s ponytail shook frantically behind his shiny bald head, extending my laugh a bit longer than his.
With no new watch on my wrist, I left the fancy-pants shop and took Charlotte to Brettos in Plaka, one of Athens’ oldest distilleries, where they produce and serve their ouzo. Once our bottle arrived, our waiter leaned in and whispered that if we didn’t finish it there, we could just take it with us when we left. “Great, but don’t ever try that if you go to Sweden,” I told her, and we all laughed. Needless to say, we left the bottle there as it was empty.
Published: Book about L.A.
My new book with a collection of selected scenes and places from my hometown of Los Angeles is now available on Amazon.
Order the new book by clicking on this link if you’re in Sweden, or the United Kingdom, by clicking on this link if you’re ordering the book from the US of A and this link from India, Singapore, and Japan.
Acropolis Wedding in Athens, Greece
The number of weddings I’ve been hired to photograph is nearly equal to the number I’ve turned down.
It’s something rarely discussed, but despite all the advancements in gear and software, professional photography still comes with many unknowns and uncontrollable variables.
The key to any successful shoot is minimizing as many of those unknowns as possible—and with weddings, I’ve always found that to be exceptionally difficult.
More than anything, the sheer level of expectations from the couple (especially the bride and her mother) makes wedding photography one of the most challenging assignments I’ve ever taken on.
When I saw a photographer capturing a stunning bride and her handsome groom beneath the sunlit Acropolis yesterday evening, I actually felt a little stressed on her behalf.
She’s probably spending the next few days sifting through hundreds—if not thousands—of photos. Phew.
White Lotus & Koh Samui
Since Charlotte is soon celebrating her 60th birthday and has been a devoted fan of the TV series White Lotus since season 1, I just looked up what it would cost for us to stay a few nights at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui in Thailand, where the latest season (3) was filmed.
Well, it turns out that at $10,000 per night, we won’t be staying there anytime soon.
The first time I visited Koh Samui was in the fall of 1988 – almost to the date two years after my father Ernest had passed away in his small apartment in Los Angeles. I had received an irresistible job offer from a guy named Peter Forsberg, an acquaintance from Göteborg, Sweden who turned out to own a simple bungalow place on La Mai Beach on Koh Samui, near where White Lotus was filmed, an island in the southeast of Thailand. Peter wanted me to be informally in charge of guest relations. In return, I’d get a bungalow by the beach, free meals, and a small monthly tab at the hotel’s bar.
In the fall of 1988, a bungalow at Golden Sands cost a mere $5 per night, including a basic English breakfast.
There was no airport on Koh Samui at that time, just a rickety ferry from the mainland town of Surat Thani.When you finally stepped off the boat – on shaky legs – and onto the concrete pier in Nathon (Koh Samui’s only real village back then), a small armada of dusty old Toyota pickups were waiting to take visitors to the island’s various beaches.
“Laa-Mai! Laa-Mai! Laa-Mai!” “Cha-weng! Cha-weng! Cha-weng!” shouted the hurried ladies collecting the fare. I think it was 10 baht (about 20 cents) to get from Nathon to La Mai Beach.
Once the backpacks were tossed onto the roof of the Toyota and all of us passengers had climbed into the back – gripping whatever we could while the truck sped over the island’s bumpy dirt roads – our island adventure could begin.
I ended up staying at Peter’s bungalow place for six months before returning to Sweden.
In 2005, Charlotte, Elle, and I lived on Koh Samui for half a year, with several friends visiting us at our little rented house. Charlotte says we paid about $500 per month for the house. The owner, an older American guy named Gary had retired in Thailand after a career as an engineer at General Electric in Chicago or Detroit. I still remember Gary vividly, but mostly for his struggle to pronounce my name: “Joe-Kim? Joe-Chim?”
It strikes me now that if I add up all the times I’ve been on Koh Samui, I’ve spent about one year of my life there and I feel eternally grateful to have experienced Koh Samui when the island was still just a backpacker’s paradise. And even if I probably won’t ever be checking into the Four Seasons, there is still a fair chance that I will one day revisit the lush island of Koh Samui – and while there, stop by for a refreshing drink at the hotel’s bar, without breaking the bank.
Jogging to Acropolis in Athens, Greece
So when Charlotte suggested a 5k morning run up the hill to the sacred temple of the Acropolis and then beyond into Koukaki, I didn’t hesitate – though I did send up a quick prayer to the Greek gods, begging them to grant my back the strength and stamina to survive today’s run.
And what do you know? Zeus & Co must have been feeling generous this morning – and a glorious, sweat-drenched 5K jog through ancient Athens is now part of my running history.
A Spontaneous Model Shoot in Plaka, Athens, Greece
You know those generous people who offer to take your picture when the light is perfect or the view is breathtaking – or both? I’m one of them.
In fact, I do it all the time, and yesterday while wandering the narrow streets and steep steps of Plaka just below the Acropolis here in Athens, was no exception.
I find it absolutely fascinating how the “selfie” has evolved into full-blown photo shoots, where people travel far and wide to iconic spots, dress up from top-to-toe, and then meticulously stage scenes for their real – or imagined – “influencees.”
That’s where I step in – quite literally. I reason that the least I can do is help these folks capture a decent image of themselves and, in the process, I try to do justice to the incredible scenery they’ve (and I) traveled so far to see.
Fortunately, thanks in no small way to the introduction of camera phones equipped with wide-angle lenses a few years ago, the selfie stick has become a rarity.
Oh, and I have no idea who this random woman was, where she was from, or if she was a famous social media personality. I just felt obligated to lend her a hand by capturing her striking a pose against a strikingly beautiful background.
Aristotle & the Demi$e of Democracy (and Society)
Aristotle argued that a city must be small enough for its citizens to know one another, to gather, debate, and actively participate in their governance.
If and when a city grows too big, it fractures, and democracy becomes an illusion. If you cannot see, hear, and understand the will of the people around you, how can you rule fairly and justly?
I wholeheartedly agree with Aristotle.
After traveling to so many mega-cities, including Tokyo, New Delhi, Nairobi, New York, L.A. Istanbul, London, Bangkok and Tokyo, I have come to the conclusion that I have been incredibly naive in thinking that we will be able to stop, let alone reverse, the ongoing climate crisis.
Sounds like a copout, I know. But at some point we need to let the “kumbaya” fade away and get real about what we’re facing and then face straight on. Removing plastic straws and driving EV:s are not going to make a difference. Not really.
The wheels of industry have become too large, the machinery too complicated, and the world too cynical for more significant change than what a little greenwashing can muster.
Being in Athens right now feels extraordinarily fitting, as this city (as seen in my photo above) is enormously big and must be incredibly complicated to manage and maintain.
The sheer scale of Athens, the layers of history, and the density of life here make it once again clear to me just how complex urban governance and all that comes with it, truly is.
Still, I am optimistic about the planet itself surviving. The Earth has endured far worse than us, and it will continue long after we’re gone.
So, instead of drowning in despair over the inevitable demise of society as we know it in a few generations, I think we should appreciate our time here as a species and go with the flow. That’s not to say that I think we should get even more diabolical in order to accelerate the downfall. I’m not even sure we could if we tried. But the collective guilt many of us feel, myself included, is not helping anything or anybody. Least of all this blue rock we call home.
Cats of Athens
Here’s one of the hundreds (if not thousands) of feral kittykats “guarding” the sacred grounds of the Acropolis. Built a mind-boggling 2400 years ago, in its heyday, the Acropolis of Athens served mostly as a religious and ceremonial hub, dedicated to Athena, the city’s patron goddess.
Though Athens is one of the most cat-friendly capitals in the world, these furry felines were not originally native to Greece and have not been part of Greek mythology. Ancient Greeks and Romans did however import them to Athens from Egypt (where they were worshiped as deities) to control rats and other rodents. Hats off to cats for that important role.
Athens: Thoughts from Walks
Saturday. Evening. Athens.
Despite the raw cold that has hovered over the city for almost a week, it’s finally starting to warm up. This afternoon, the sun broke through for a while – just enough for me to stash away my hat.
Whenever I stay in a place for a longer period, I start by slowly expanding my walking radius until I get a feel for the area. It’s taken a little longer in Athens because the city is so wonderfully winding and labyrinthine.
I love getting lost here. The moment I feel confident about my location, I deliberately head in the opposite direction and let chance take over. It almost always leads to something exciting and inspiring. The idea of missing out on something is just an illusion. I’m more drawn to discovering a comfortable everyday rhythm than ticking off sights from a guidebook.
I never feel more alive than when I stumble upon something unexpected. I find it hard to simply be in the moment – I have to keep moving, tracking, exploring. Feeding my curiosity with new experiences.
Cities where you have to keep an eye on the pavement to avoid cracks, holes, and dog poop tend to have a lot of soul. Athens is no exception.
I think that a certain degree of decay is a good sign, and Athens’ 3,400-year-old history is visible everywhere. Excavations, small and large, pop up on many streets.
This cosmopolitan megacity exists in a state of chaos where decay and modernity coexist as neighbors. Though, to be honest, there’s far more decay than new stuff.
The position of city planner in Athens has probably been vacant for centuries.
Many beautiful yet utterly crumbling stone houses are in various stages of renovation. A bartender lamented that Athens is quickly turning into another Airbnb city. Rents are increasing so much that it’s becoming hard for locals to afford housing. Young Greeks can no longer afford to leave home.
The patina of Athens reminds me of other Southern European cities we’ve lived in over the years – Palma, Málaga, Lisbon. But really, it was Athens that set the template for most of them.
I’m surprised at how easy it is to reach different neighborhoods in central Athens – Plaka, Syntagma, Kolonaki, Psiri, and Exarchia. The city is big, but if, like us, you enjoy walking for hours, it’s entirely possible to explore on foot.
It’s humbling to stroll through the same streets where Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle once walked – the old men who came up with the whole idea of democracy.
Though I imagine those ancient Greeks are rolling in their graves right now, as the new U.S. president and his sycophantic entourage blatantly ignore and undermine their country’s constitutional democratic principles. It’s the behavior of someone drunk on power. He acts as if he were a king – but in the end, he’s just a clown.
There’s something special about cities built on hills. They may not be the easiest to navigate, but if people went through the trouble of building a city on uneven terrain, the place must have been interesting enough to be worth it.
An olive tasting in Monastiraki costs €4 / $4.30 / 45 SEK, and you get to try around twenty different kinds. Apparently, there are over a hundred varieties in total.
Yesterday, I discovered that a double Maker’s Mark bourbon and a large Nymph beer cost 113 SEK / €10 / $10.90 at our local bar. One of the bar’s co-owners has a daughter who will be interning at the Greek embassy in Stockholm this spring.
When I mentioned that I live in Malmö, she treated me to a shot of cha-cha and another beer. It turned into a slightly more festive after-work drink than I had originally planned.
A loaf of Greek sourdough bread costs 11 SEK / €1 / $1.05, and 25–30 large, meaty Chalkidiki olives go for 25 SEK / €2.20 / $2.40.
The sturdy Albanian woman who works at the neighborhood deli has started recognizing me. Every single one of her recommendations has been spot on. Her sister lives in Södertälje.
Athens is not short on stray cats. They rule the streets, and the little lapdogs are terrified of them.
Storm over Athens
First day in Athens. Got in kinda late yesterday after my flight from @copenhagenairport and used whatever energy I had left to walk to the nearest local market and stock up on delicious olives (three kinds, no less), tasty feta cheese, the creamiest yogurt, and other Greek essentials.
The one-bedroom apartment Charlotte rented for the month is roomy and comfy and located in Thissio – a neighborhood with a very local vibe – yet close to Acropolis and other ancient sites, some of which I visited today (like the view above from lunchtime today).
This is my third visit to Athens but my first off-season stay. Love this city’s contrast. It’s gritty, modern and ancient all at once. Charlotte says Athens is our new Lisbon just as Lisbon was our new Malaga a few years ago. From a culinary perspective, while not as “fancy” as say, French or Italian cuisines, Greek food is arguably the healthiest of all the countries around the Mediterranean. And I’ve always experienced the Greeks as friendly, welcoming, and generous people.
Going to complete my book about phobias while here and then begin compiling a book of personal stories which I’ve been inspired to create after that my cousin Laura @brushedthread so generously shared her limited edition “Little Memoirs” with me a couple of years ago.
Streets of Osaka
The vast majority of my walks in Osaka were intentionally serendipitous. I had a rough idea of where I was within the city’s boundaries, but I made a conscious effort to explore places and find spaces that in one way or another appealed to me in an unconventional way. Osaka’s density and intensity offered plenty of opportunities, just as long as I stayed clear of tourist venues and kept to where locals were walking, driving, riding, working, and living.
Osaka Rush Hour
Osaka Sushi Dinner
Friday. Evening. Sushi. Overdose.
Some observations and reflections:
• Osaka is a busy city yet suprisingly easy to navigate on foot. One of the main streest, Midosuji Boulevard (御堂筋), runs from Umeda to Tsutenkaku Tower, passing through several cool districts like Namba, Shinsaibashi, and Tennoji. This makes it both easy and fun to allow yourself to get lost in the alleys and side streets. You’ll always find your way back to Midosuji.
• On average, I’ve walked 24,000 steps per day, which is 22,000 more than I could manage in early December when my sciatica was at its worst.
• On Osaka’s sidewalks, people follow left-side traffic rules, but cyclists dominate the centerline, happily slaloming through pedestrians at breakneck speeds.
• It’s clear that Japanese people take pride in their work—no matter what they do—but perhaps even more so in jobs that aren’t particularly prestigious. Apparently, this is called “Hokori” (誇り). Such an attitude must bring inner peace but might also hold some people back from reaching their full potential.
• I now understand why Osaka is called “Japan’s Kitchen.” There are restaurants everywhere—about 45,000 in Greater Osaka. Not surprising, considering Osakans seem to eat at least one meal out every day.
• Women working in hotels, shops, and restaurants (or heard over public PA systems) have eerily childlike voices.
• January is a perfect time to visit Japan. Being here off-season means I’ve often been the only “gaijin” (foreigner) around, enjoying a little extra help and great service.
• I’ve had a week of blue skies and brilliant sunshine, chilly mornings (4-5°C), and been able to shed my hat, gloves, and scarf by midday.
• Many more people speak English now compared to the first time Elle, Charlotte, and I were in Japan 16 years ago. Maybe the 1990s sitcom Friends has contributed to an improved understanding of English here.
• I discovered that the nearest Lawson (convenience store) to my hotel has as wide a selection of sake as it does instant noodles.
• I wonder if Japan currently has the most beautiful paper currency in the world. The new ¥1,000 bill features Dr. Kitasato Shibasaburō, a bacteriologist, and the iconic The Great Wave off Kanagawa by Katsushika Hokusai.
• From time to time, I glance up at the skyscrapers and almost expect “Gojira” (呉爾羅) to appear with smoky nostrils and his playful son in tow.
• Bourdain was absolutely right when he described Lawson’s egg sandwiches as unnaturally fluffy, insanely delicious, and inexplicably addictive.
• Eventually, this will turn into a fine little book about my impressions from visits to Okinawa, Tokyo, Kyoto, and now Osaka and Hiroshima. Stay tuned.