Lunch at Non Grata
I’ve been eating very well while in Stockholm. There have been a few extraordinary culinary experiences, including both lunches and dinners.
I get a lot of pleasure when eating well-made, creatively presented food that challenges my palate and tastebuds. That said, I can still enjoy a functional meal of comfort food where there are no surprises or invitations to discover a hidden layer of flavor.
There is a time and place for both: the reassuring simplicity of the familiar, and the exhilarating friction of the unexpected.
The other day, as a belated birthday present, I was invited by friends to experience a new restaurant in Stockholm called Non Grata.
Though I have never actually eaten at its high-concept sister restaurant Persona, I knew of its formidable reputation. Persona was founded by chef Louis Cespedes and sommelier Jonatan Nyström – both alumni of Michelin-starred Frantzén – building a name on uncompromising precision. At Non Grata, they take that same pedigree and apply it to a far more relaxed, Basque-inspired concept.
It has been a long time since I worked in a hot or cold kitchen, and to be honest, the bar where I cooked was set pretty low. Yet, like any creative pursuit, the insight and understanding remain. It’s a lot like my guitar playing – even if I never learned more than rudimentary chords and rhythms, having spent time with the instrument gives you an appreciation for the sheer amount of discipline, training, and constant fuckups required to hone a talent and execute at a high level.
Because of that background, seeing what they are doing at Non Grata with Basque flavors and tapas was exciting. It sits as far away from traditional, oily tourist tapas as you can get. Classic Spanish components are re-imagined with confident technique and wonderful textural contrasts, all while maintaining an effortless presentation.
Sitting outside in the courtyard under the trees, surrounded by good friends and food that continuously sparked the senses, felt like a brief escape to a vibrant square in San Sebastián. More than just a great meal, it reignited a dormant spark in me.
Leaving the restaurant, I felt a genuine push to step away from predictable comfort food at home and get back to experimenting with more exciting, adventurous flavors.



