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Västra Hamnen – Cold As Ice
February 1. Is it just me, or didn’t January seem a bit elongated? In the middle of a Swedish winter, when the Baltic winds sweep across the Öresund and the mercury drops to levels that I feel are almost inhumanly cold, most people stay tucked away indoors. But for me, looking out across Västra Hamnen, the chill is just another layer that makes this place so incredibly unique.
Living and working here since 2002 has been an extraordinary journey. When we first moved in, the area was still vibrating with the energy of the Bo01 housing expo. The Kockums Crane still stood as a sentinel of our industrial past – a silhouette that would soon be replaced by the twisting grace of the Turning Torso. Since then, I’ve watched this neighborhood evolve from a visionary “City of Tomorrow” into a living, breathing community that never stops reinventing itself.
Västra Hamnen – A Neighborhood as a Muse
As a multidisciplinary creative artist, my work is often a reflection of my surroundings, and when not traveling, this neighborhood has certainly been a tireless muse. There is something about the way the light hits the seawater and bounces off the diverse architecture that demands to be captured. It’s not like I have a choice.
19,000 Passionate Neighbors
One of the most rewarding aspects of my online life is the community we’ve built together. My Facebook page, I Love Västra Hamnen, has grown to over 19,000 passionate followers. I publish images and films there several times a week in an effort to bottle the essence of this place – the storms, the sunsets, and the quiet morning moments. Knowing that thousands of people share that same “neighborhood pride” and find joy in my visual stories is what keeps me heading out with my camera, even on days like today, when the wind feels like it’s carving ice into my soul.
So, friends, stay warm out there, and keep looking for the beauty in the “now” – no matter the temperature.
Surviving the Arctic Winter in Sweden
The Vietnamese family who run the extremely well-stocked grocery store adjacent to the square, however, was open as usual. When the charming older woman at the register met my gaze as I stomped in wearing heavy winter boots, I could see the question in her resigned eyes: What am I doing here, really? Hoi An is pretty nice this time of year…
The store was out of tempeh, so I had to settle for a couple of packs of fried tofu. I also picked up a jar of sesame oil, some soba noodles, and hoisin before biking over to Moderna Museet to see the exhibition by Albanian painter Edi Hila. Interesting motifs from early-1990s Tirana – though perhaps not quite as remarkable as the sheer number of his works might suggest.
https://www.modernamuseet.se/…/sv/utstallningar/edi-hila/
On the ride home to Västra Hamnen, I listened to the latest episode of Philosophers’ Room, where a panel of know-it-alls discussed “the law of the strong.
https://www.sverigesradio.se/avsnitt/den-starkes-ratt-har-den-inte-alltid-gallt
Plenty of interesting perspectives, and of course a lot of focus on Putin and Trump, but also on whether we’ll ever be rid of power-drunk old men and their questionably motivated wars of aggression. The conversation also drifted toward whether those of us living in smaller countries simply have to accept reality and make peace with an existence as a vassal state.
On the way home, I biked over to one of our grocery stores to pick up a few dinner ingredients and caught myself, once again, studying what the customer ahead of me in the checkout line was putting on the conveyor belt. Nearly wiped out when a sudden gust of wind and a patch of ice conspired along the bike path on the way home.
It’ll take a lot for me to head back out today.
I’ll now put on my headphones, cue up the radio station Drone Zone, and keep writing in the book Before I Forget until my stomach starts growling and it’s time to get dinner on the table.
https://somafm.com/player24/station/dronezone
My Love For Time Capsules
This is from an abandoned office not much more than 1 kilometer from where I am writing this in Malmö. It struck me as I saw it flash by in Lightroom that I’ve been semi-subconsciously drawn to unintentional time capsules for several years – abandoned places where time has been preserved not by design, but by neglect, chance, or sudden change.
I keep documenting these time capsules because they carry a particular kind of mystery: rooms left mid-sentence, objects halted in place, quiet traces of human presence without the humans themselves.
They invite curiosity precisely because they refuse to explain themselves, even as they hint at lives interrupted rather than neatly concluded or at least faded out gracefully.
For me, the unintentionally of time capsules do more than fascinate. They hold the tension between what once was and what never got the chance to become – and that gap triggers something both intellectual and visceral: the urge for me to look closer, to record, and to understand what it means to leave without closure.
I don’t think my fixation is accidental. Photography does something similar. It isolates what would otherwise vanish and insists: this mattered. Maybe not forever, but enough to be held onto.
And yes, there’s something personal under this particular surface. As my life has been shaped more by abrupt shifts than gentle transitions – moves, separations, endings that arrived without warning, I rarely got the luxury of easing into change. Instead, I learned to cope afterward, by looking back and reconstructing. Arguably, sometimes lingering a bit too long.
Maybe that’s why I return to the past so often – not out of nostalgia, but because some things were left behind too quickly…
Snowy Winter Walk in Västra Hamnen with Charlotte Raboffl
After last night’s torrential snowfall, Mrs Raboff and I were both eager to feel the soft snow under our boots and hear that deeply satisfying crunch as we walked along the coastline this morning.
There’s something grounding about that sound – like the world briefly agreeing to slow down and behave itself. The sea was steel-grey, the sky the same, but the powdery layer of white along the path made everything feel brighter and lighter. Kinder, even. The wind seemed to hold back a little too – as if it didn’t want to ruin the moment.
The snow won’t last long – it never does down here in the south – but while here, it certainly brightens our otherwise grey winter in a way that feels almost ceremonial. A short-lived upgrade to the everyday.
We didn’t say much during our walk. We didn’t have to. This morning’s snow walk felt perfectly subtitled.
Gym Communication
Clomp, clomp, clomp. Wheeze, wheeze, wheeze. Blah, blah, blah.
When I crawled out of bed around five this morning, groggy and stiff as a plank, it was with slow Frankenstein steps that I shuffled over to the Fitness24Seven gym in the block behind our local supermarket, ICA. I was looking forward to the week’s first workout on home turf. The previous session I’d done at the chain’s branch on Hornsgatan in Stockholm.
I like Fitness24Seven’s concept, where your membership gives you free access to all their roughly 280 gyms in five countries. Last year I trained at ten different gyms in Malmö, Gothenburg, Trollhättan, Stockholm, and Bangkok.
The machines aren’t the same quality as at my old gym, where they have Italian Technogym, but they’re perfectly fine. After all, it’s the muscles that are supposed to do the work – not the machines.
Just like so many other Monday mornings around six in the am, only the middle treadmill was available. To my right ran The Clomper, to my left ran The Wheezer, and on the far end walked The Yapper, who, as so often, was in the middle of yet another incredibly important and very loud phone call with someone.
For me, training is non-negotiable. The medication I take for my arthritis suppresses my immune system so much that I have to keep moving just to have a fighting chance against nasty germs and mischievous viruses. On top of that, exercise keeps the ghosts at a respectful distance, which in turn leaves room for my fuel – creativity.
I usually listen to BBC, Monocle Globalist, Conan O’Brien, or The New Yorker Radio Hour when I work out. But The Yapper’s forty-minute phone call this morning made it hard to hear or focus on anything other than the conversation he was having – a call which, judging by the volume, was clearly of the highest national importance.
When The Yapper isn’t running on the treadmill, I can usually hear him talking and laughing so loudly that he truly deserves his nickname. I’m annoyed with myself for not having more civic courage so early in the morning.
I can live with the obviously flat-footed Clomper, and even though it sometimes sounds like The Wheezer is about to give birth any second, it’s really only The Yapper who manages to sabotage my concentration a bit.
From a social-anthropological point of view, I’m fascinated by how some people seem to be completely filterless and can behave as if they own the gym.
Some of the younger guys think it’s perfectly okay to mark three different machines as “theirs” at the same time. Others have no problem scrolling for several minutes between sets, as if they were at a café and not in the middle of a workout.
Last week, I actually mustered the courage to ask a guy (my age) if he’d be done with his sets soon. He just sat there glaring at his screen when I tried to get to the machine he was occupying. He got visibly irritated and snapped:
“I didn’t know you had booked it.”
I laughed, left him to his screen, and went to another machine without thinking too much more about the slightly odd situation. But clearly, I didn’t let it go completely. On the walk home, I felt like a guy from the “gym police”.
Sometimes I have a hard time understanding how people think when they barrel along in their own little bubble without showing the slightest consideration – or even understanding what you’re talking about when I gently point out that it’s not okay. Maybe I’ve just been to Japan too many times.
In an hour or so, it’s supposed to start snowing. If we’re lucky, it’ll remain for a while. I’m looking forward to some snow. I like the light and the silence a blanket of snow brings with it. The fridge and freezer are reasonably well stocked with food, and in one of the kitchen drawers, I’ve collected five or six cans of Heinz Baked Beans in case we end up completely snowed in here in Malmö.
Back in the late 1980s, when the highway between Kiruna and Riksgränsen was closed due to a snowstorm, you’d call the Swedish Road Administration to check when it would open again. A recorded voice on the authority’s phone line would then say:
“This is the Swedish Road Administration’s automated answering service. The road between Kiruna and Riksgränsen is expected to open in three hours. End of message.”
No timestamp, so we had no idea when the recording had been made. But it was also funny. Communication isn’t always that easy. Not for government agencies – and not for people at the gym…
Stockholm’s Urban Landscapes
I’ve realized that most of my urban photography over the years can be traced back to a persistent obsession with geometry. Which in turn is something I also enjoy as a “subject” when I paint.
Straight lines. Hard angles. Repeating patterns. The way glass, steel, and concrete intersect and hold their ground against sky and light. I don’t think I ever made a conscious decision to photograph “architecture” as such. It just kept happening.
There’s something deeply reassuring about order in my somewhat chaotic world. Cities are loud and messy – yet within all that noise, there’s some kind of order – often retrofitted – doing what it can to accommodate the people who live, work, and move through the always evolving or iterating urban landscape.
Beams align. Facades repeat. Windows stack into grids. Staircases slice diagonals through space. Even the most aggressively modern building still submits, in the end, to mathematics – a subject I’m impossibly poor at understanding, but whose outcomes I can still appreciate and be inspired by.
Over time, my fascination with geometry has become less about documenting details in cities and more about collecting visually appealing, often calming scenes and situations within an urban environment.
Maybe that’s what keeps me coming back. In a life that’s often anything but symmetrical, the cold, hard logic appeals. The calm of things that know exactly what and where they are supposed to be. Much unlike myself.
I’ll continue to photograph geometry in urban landscapes because geometry never gets old – and neither does the small, private satisfaction of framing the mundane in a way that, at least to me, feels interesting. Like these stairs that intrigued me as I walked to catch the 09:05 morning train to Malmö a couple of days ago.
Södermalm & Maria Magdalena Church in Stockholm
In the past 20 years, I’ve stayed at dozens of different hotels all over Stockholm. So it is without any hesitation whatsoever that I can say Södermalm is easily my favorite island to be based on when visiting the capital.
This past visit, I stayed within meters of Maria Magdalena Church captured above. The photograph was taken just a few days ago, on my merry way to enjoy a beer or two with Annika – a dear old friend and, in our youth, a former bartender colleague from Hotel Riksgränsen in Swedish Lapland.
There’s something about Södermalm that always enchants me. One moment I’m weaving past vintage shops and falafel joints on Götgatan, the next I’m up on the cliffs of Mariaberget, watching Riddarfjärden and the old rooftops of Gamla Stan. A view that never gets old. Södermalm has this gift for stitching the ordinary and the quietly spectacular together.
By the time I reached the bar, my shoulders had already dropped a few centimeters. That’s what Söder does to me. It doesn’t try too hard. It doesn’t shout. It just offers a good walk, a good view, multiple places where a good meal can be enjoyed – and the faint but persistent feeling that, if you weren’t already living somewhere else, you could live there quite happily.
Changing of the Guards
Shot this yesterday at Kungliga Slottet – the Royal Palace in Stockholm, where the city once again reminded me that some ancient traditions are still alive and cherished.
The Changing of the Guard (Högvaktsavlösningen) rolled into the palace’s outer courtyard with such crisp, measured precision that it made me straighten my posture without even noticing.
It’s part military duty, part ceremony – roughly 40 minutes of disciplined choreography – and you don’t need a ticket, an invitation, or a special reason beyond simply happening to be there.
The best part? Continuity. The Royal Guards have been posted here since 1523, and somehow the whole ritual still feels strangely current – especially these days…
It’s Stockholm’s way of saying: yeah, time moves on, but some things stay beautifully and stubbornly intact.
Poop & PSA
The results from the poop test came in the other day.
What? Let me explain.
I started the new year with two things that – at least for me – were mildly anxiety-inducing. First, I handed in a stool sample to check if there was any blood in it, which in turn could indicate an elevated risk of cancer in the rear end (and a bit further up the plumbing system).
Then I took a blood test to check the risk of prostate cancer. The time between testing and getting the results was… not exactly fun.
In situations like that, my lively imagination isn’t much of an asset, and since I also have semi-chronic hypochondria, I managed to sink pretty deep into some abyssal thought spirals while I was stuck in that drawn-out “waiting room.”
Prostate cancer is the most common form of cancer among men in Sweden – and the risk increases, like all other crap, with age. Cold facts: if we live long enough, most of us men will get prostate cancer. You don’t die from it as such, but sooner or later, it hits almost all older guys.
Like so many men my age, my prostate sometimes gets a bit sore, and that can in turn affect its neighbor, the bladder, so you feel like you have to pee even if only a few drops have collected there. Around the clock.
Unlike many of my male friends, I have zero problem talking about stuff like this. For me, it gets defused when I say it out loud. And I hope that others who walk around bothered in silence might feel a little less alone if they have similar symptoms.
It’s quite fascinating how much easier women seem to have opening up about their physical, age-related issues.
According to the nurse, whom I eventually had to call myself (symptomatic of Capio) – I had a very low PSA value.
Karolinska Institute informed me via Kivra that they couldn’t see any traces of blood in my stool.
Phew.
Slightly noteworthy, though, was what it said at the very end of the KI message: that I might want to cut back a bit on my consumption of OLW’s “Cheez Cruncherz Hot Chili.” How the hell the lab could see that makes me admire their analytical technique. Maybe they uploaded a photo to ChatGPT?
I’m writing these lines from a simple hotel room on Söder – near Mariatorget, Hornstullpucken, and the gallery strip. It’s thin-walled. So thin-walled that if I’d only understood German better, I could have understood what the woman in the next room was saying between her loud moans. Probably just as well that I can’t.
It’s cold, too. So cold that the kind old guy at reception brought in a small, wheezing space heater. But the bed is comfortable, the breakfast is good, and the location is fantastic.
Feels perfect to have kicked off the year by visiting the capital and meeting old, good friends from my time in Riksgränsen. Also managed a fun shrimp lunch with Per, one of my cousins, at Lisa E in the mother of all food halls.
During the days I’ve been strolling around and photographing Stockholm in a partly beautiful winter outfit – despite the fairly unfriendly photo weather. Steps so far: 53k. And now 1,055 culled images from Stockholm are sitting in the archive.
Clearly time for a book!
Restaurant Talk
Sunday. Evening. Restaurant talk.
When the waiter launched into his third coughing fit, I was already halfway out the door of the lunch place. The food hadn’t even arrived yet, but I could tell my friend wasn’t comfortable either.
Why didn’t the waiter step outside for some fresh air – or at least duck into the dish room – instead of coughing his lungs out right before serving our lunch?
Apparently, he didn’t get the memo about my becoming squeamish with age. These days, I genuinely feel nauseous when strangers cough or blow their noses near me – or worst of all – clear their throats so you can actually hear the phlegm floating around at way too close range.
I’ve even reached the point where I turn away when someone barfs in a movie. I do have a friend, though, who you can’t even mention stuff like that to without triggering a sequence of dry heaves.
The restaurant business has changed a lot since I worked as a bartender, DJ, and waiter more than 30 years ago. Not surprising. A lot has changed. Not least myself.
Most restaurants I’ve eaten at in Malmö in recent years have been more or less meh. Sure, the staff do their jobs and the food is often decent – but there’s no presence, no pride, no pizazz, no genuine joy. It’s all mechanical and transactional.
At least until it’s time to tap your card and you’re encouraged to tip 5, 10, 15, or 20 percent for a mediocre meal carried from the kitchen to my table by a charmless individual over the course of about 30 seconds.
Because that’s when these zombie servers suddenly come alive – smiling broadly, turning on the flattery, yet still with an attitude. As if they want me to feel grateful for the privilege of spending the last of my cash there.
Contradictorily, I usually still leave a 5% tip, even though I’m not entirely sure why. Probably some warped sense of solidarity I still feel toward strangers working in a business I once made my living in.
Sometimes I wonder if Swedish restaurateurs, like their American counterparts, are quietly shifting part of their staff’s wage costs onto us guests. We truly live in a shameless age.
During my ten years in the business, it was almost all cash. So simple and smooth. Sure, some people had bank cards, and occasionally a yuppie would flash a silver or gold Amex.
I remember once serving a beer to a guy whose last name was Cash, who carried a Platinum Amex rumored to have no spending limit. Ironically, Mr. Cash never paid with cash.
Back to tipping.
In those days, when a large beer cost 48 Swedish kronor, nine times out of ten you’d get two kronor as a tip. Mostly because the guest didn’t want to stuff the loose change back into their pocket. But maybe also because you’d actually made an effort and been kind from order to bill.
I remember working on the wobbly canal boat Åtta Glas in Göteborg in the early 1990s, where they served fillet mignon Black & White and a large beer for 95 kronor.
There, tips were always rounded up, and we pooled them among everyone working that shift – cooks, servers, dishwashers, and us behind the bar. I worked there with brother Nick, and for some reason, most of the patrons were British construction workers.
After a long day and night (a 15 hour shift) at Åtta Glas, I could often step ashore with a thousand kronor cash in my pocket. And how much of that did I save? Exactly. Zero.
Looking back, I realize how lucky I was working in hotels and restaurants in the 1980s and early 1990s. It helped finance my vague artistic ambitions, and it gave me the chance to work with solid role models: Mannerström at Johanna, Lenta at Munken, Alexandra Charles at Änkan, Nolle at Hotel Riksgränsen, Ulf and Lalle Johansson at Lionis in Gothenburg.
Later in life, I’ve worked with many excellent restaurateurs and hoteliers, too – though then in a creative capacity.
But when I was younger, I was a dedicated seasonal worker, hopping from place to place like a restless butterfly, soaking up everything I could learn before moving on.
I learned something from everyone I worked for or with. Above all, I learned that guests should leave a restaurant full, happy, and inclined to come back – and to tell others about their good dining experience.
For me, the restaurateur’s presence has always mattered more than what they decided to name their place. They’re the star, the ringmaster, and the air-traffic controller all in one.
Their aura should figuratively flutter over the dining room – not just infuse what comes out of the kitchen, but everyone who works there. I’ve always felt that meeting the owner adds something extra to the visit.
I wrapped up my long, winding restaurant career by working as a lecturer at an international vocational college for the hospitality industry, GIHC in Gothenburg (thank you, Lars Olemyr).
Now, as a guest, consistency is what matters most to me. Wherever we travel, I want to quickly find a solid restaurant that reliably delivers good food every time. We have a couple in Malmö, and in most places where we’ve stayed for longer periods.
If I have a positive first experience, I’m happy to return with the expectation that it’ll be at least as good the next time. If it is, I’m hooked.
A restaurant in Athens we tried in early February last year offered us a shot of raki before dinner. Did we go back? Four times in three weeks. Not because of the booze, but because of the gesture. The food was fantastic, too. I’ve loved Greek cuisine ever since my first Interrail trip to Corfu in 1983.
It’s amazing how simple it can be to surprise a guest with a small but noticeable gesture.
This last Saturday evening, Mrs. Raboff and I went out to eat at a simple neighborhood place we’ve enjoyed seven or eight times over the past year.
I chose what turned out to be a heavenly lamb loin with a crispy, creamy gratin. Charlotte had a lovely mushroom risotto.
Shortly before the food arrived, the owner came by to say hello, exchange a few words, and wish us a pleasant meal. When the waitress served our dishes a few minutes later, with a genuine smile and wishing we enjoyed our choices, the intro to Peg by Steely Dan came on.
The restaurant’s playlist was curated, not random. Someone – maybe the owner himself, about my age – had taken the time to put together a thoughtful playlist.
A whole string of songs followed that anyone with halfway decent music taste would appreciate hearing quietly in the background while enjoying dinner and a couple of hours away from everyday obligations.
Aside from my belief that cheese has no place in a classic gratin, we left the restaurant satisfied, full, and ready to return sometime soon.
The lunch place I mentioned at the start, however, I don’t think I’ll ever visit again. Not really because the waiter coughed so much, but because he didn’t realize that it’s simply not okay for a server to repeatedly cough in a dining room.
In my world, that behavior says more about the person who hired him than about the cougher himself.
I’ve long realized that most “restaurateurs” lack a genuine interest in serving good food and making guests feel that their hard-earned money is well spent.
Most restaurant owners have clearly identified that people occasionally need to eat out and have grasped an opportunity to make money from this need. Any real interest in cooking is moderate at best – if it exists at all.
And that’s fine, at least when we’re talking about pizzerias, hot-dog stands, burger joints, or a falafel place. Expectations are adjusted accordingly.
At 62.5, I’ve probably eaten at more than 4,000 different restaurants (100 per year for 40 years) in nearly 70 countries. Probably more than that.
And I did spend ten years working in restaurants. So it doesn’t take long for me to tell a good place from a bad one. I see it in the staff’s jargon, the interior, how the menu presents the food, and how my reasonably well-trained taste buds react to the first bite.
Often, it’s obvious that the owner sees guests as a necessary evil and staff as a cost. When the environment screams poor judgment and the servers lack humility or have a cocky attitude, I know deeper problems are simmering.
Yes, I’ve probably become something of a snob when it comes to restaurants. I have neither the time nor the patience, and I definitely don’t want to spend my money on places where “not good, but expensive” is the unwritten tagline.
The above image was taken by someone, sometime in the summer of 1989, somewhere on an island in Lofoten, Norway.
Go Greenland, go!!!
Heeding Healthy Habits
Alright, let’s tackle this beast of a topic – “Heeding Healthy Habits.” It is a phrase that, quite frankly, often conjures images of extraordinarily fit health gurus, smoothies the color of swamp water, and the kind of relentless self-flagellation that makes me yearn for a bourbon, a greasy burger, and a super-sized bag of fries.
But fear not, for I am not here to preach the gospel of unwavering dietary asceticism, but rather to muse on the more sensible path that I am currently on.
The world, as we’ve all noticed, is awash with longevity experts. Each is armed with peer-reviewed papers, bespoke supplement regimes, and the conviction that they alone have cracked the code to eternal youth – or, at the very least, figured out how to become a highly functional centenarian.
My own journey through this labyrinth of nutritional advice and exercise dogma has led me to a simple, yet profoundly liberating conclusion: heeding healthy habits does not demand the complete annihilation of joy. Instead, it’s a delicate dance between discipline and – dare I say – a generous amount of indulgence. At least on the weekends. Especially on the weekends.
I am currently living by the venerable 80/20 rule, a principle so elegant in its simplicity that even the most fervent zealot might concede its utility. Eighty percent of my food can be considered a form of nutritional prudence.
The remaining twenty percent? Ah, that precious aliquot is reserved for the glorious, the unrepentantly unhealthy – the dishes that whisper sweet nothings of butter, sugar, and deep-fried delights.
Then there is the ritual of the gym, that temple of clanking weights and the rhythmic thump of feet upon the treadmill. An hour, every other day. Thirty minutes of cardio followed by thirty minutes of resistance training – defying the gravitational pull of my body’s slow decline. I don’t see it so much as an obsession; it is a commitment, a non-negotiable appointment, and a challenge that I feel a certain quiet triumph in conquering.
For ten days now, alcohol has been banished, and the mind sharpened. To complete this home-brewed regimen, the curious practice of intermittent fasting has taken hold of me again. In my case, this means no breakfast.
Unless, of course, I find myself in a hotel. For then, dear reader, all bets are off. The buffet, in its glorious abundance, demands a certain… participation. One must, after all, allow for exceptions for the sake of sheer civilized pleasure.
I think I’ve stumbled upon a rather compelling recipe. It balances indulgence with restraint, effort with ease, and sanity with the occasional, utterly necessary, culinary transgression. For what good is a long life if it is devoid of pleasure? I must simply learn to measure it out, to pace it – much like a carefully curated photograph – capturing the light and the shadow in equal, exquisite measure.
This tray is from a restaurant I’ve been to a few times in Bangkok, where they serve a terrific array of food from Chennai (formerly Madras).
Solar Powered
Give me blue skies and a bit of sun (and preferably some warmth), and I become hopeful, inspired, childishly optimistic. Take it away, and the grey arrives like a bureaucrat: quiet, persistent, and determined to put a lid on everything until my mind feels shrink-wrapped.
I suppose the dependency stems from growing up in sun-kissed Southern California, where sunshine isn’t a special occasion – it’s the default setting. Which means that a long Scandinavian stretch of overcast weather can sometimes feel like a whole season.
So today – yet another sunny Sunday – was perfect for a long walk along a frozen beach with cold air and sunlight bouncing off frozen waves. No miracles. No revelations. Just the simple luxury of sunshine and endless blue skies.
Norra Hamnen i Malmö
Norra Hamnen (the northern harbor) has never been Malmö’s “pretty” side – it’s the city’s backyard that actually does Malmö’s heavy lifting these days. In this photograph (taken from the 54th floor at @skyhighmeetings in the Turning Torso), you can see an industrial landscape built for flow, not charm.
Today, it’s Malmö’s largest industrial business area, tightly tied to the port and ferry traffic. Malmö Industrial Park is the engine of Norra Hamnen – logistics, warehousing, manufacturing, and port-dependent companies.
The future is not vague here – Malmö municipality has a masterplan. They’re expanding Norra Hamnen with major land reclamation in steps and stages, and the latest green light means the port can grow by a huge new area (described as roughly 52 soccer fields). The fill work is expected to take about a decade, then additional years of ground prep – with the new land projected to be ready for port operations around 2040–2045. The port masterplan also talks about new quays for deeper ships and even potential wind turbines on the reclaimed area. The future for Malmö looks bright.
Winter Sunset
We’ve been lucky so far this year. While unusually cold, the sun has come out – if not all day long, at least for a while every day. Seeing the blue sky and sun makes this time of winter here in Malmö more bearable. Yesterday, right about the time when I took this photograph, I spoke with Nolle, an old friend and colleague from when I was working/skiing/painting/partying in Riksgränsen, Lapland (1989-1993). Nolle, who has lived in Kiruna for a long time, told me that yesterday, the temperature there was a whopping −25 °C (−13 °F). We spoke of old times, old friends, the trepidations and joys of growing older, and that keeping fit is important for all kinds of good reasons. I kept that in mind this morning when I reluctantly woke up at 5:30, got dressed, and dragged myself to the gym for an hour-long workout. My third this week.
Snow Walking
There’s something quietly perfect about walking in fresh snow. The crunch under each step. The small, soft spray that lifts and drifts away like powder. And that sharp, beautiful contrast – white snow against everything that hasn’t been claimed by it yet.
We haven’t had much snow these past few winters, at least not the kind that stays long enough to feel real. So when it does arrive, even briefly, I appreciate it. It slows life down a few notches and gives us time to listen…
My DOG 2026
Filmed at the fair My DOG 2026 at Svenska Mässan in Göteborg, Sweden on Saturday, January 3 2025. Filmed handheld on an iPhone 14 Pro Max for Charlotte’s website Hundvänliga Hotell: www.hundvanligahotell.se
My Dog 2026 Svenska Mässan
Pawed my way through the first assignment of the year today – My Dog at Svenska Mässan Convention Center. As usual, the Standard Poodles carried their tails high, and not entirely surprisingly the Dachshunds got no deductions for their nosework. The Labs and Goldens spread love, and all those proud Schnauzers (three varieties) were, of course, irresistible. And let’s not forget all the beautiful sheepdogs.
First Shrimp Sandwich of 2026
If you know me well enough, you’ll also be cognizant that there are few Swedish eats I love more than an open-faced shrimp sandwich – a räkmacka.
It’s simple in theory, almost absurdly so: a proud little mountain of shrimp, perched on bread, dressed up just enough to feel celebratory, but never so much that it forgets its humble beginnings.
The one above wasn’t just good. It felt like a benchmark.
The first of what will likely become a small procession – maybe even a string – of shrimp sandwiches over the next twelve months. It was also one of the most delicious I’ve had in a long time.
Let’s talk design, because this matters. A thick slice of toasted sourdough, the kind with a proper crust and that faint tang that makes everything above it taste better. This dish has to be made to order – à la minute – to avoid the toasted bread becoming soggy and swampy.
Herbal mayo. Dill. Onions. A boiled egg. And then the shrimp – sweet, cold, briny, piled high with the kind of confidence that suggests the kitchen knows exactly what it’s doing and sees no reason for modesty.
It’s the Swedish version of restraint and indulgence sharing the same plate. Minimal ingredients, maximal intent.
And yes, this may very well have been one of the most expensive räkmackor I’ve ever eaten. But it still seemed reasonably priced – which probably says more about my fascination with this Swedish dish than it does about my ability to objectively discern its true value. Being enchanted often means your internal calculator becomes more of a poet than an accountant.
So yes – this was most likely the first of many. A year of shrimp sandwiches lies ahead.
Happy New Year!
Wednesday. The last day of the year. Pensive.
Creatively, emotionally, geographically – 2025 was a good year. Was I happier than the year before, or just less unhappy than during any of my other sixty-two spins around the sun? I honestly don’t know. Joy is assessed differently now. Elle coming home for dinner a few times a month – that’s happiness. Waking up and feeling healthy and steady – that’s another win. Drifting back to sleep early in the morning with Charlotte wrapped around me – that’s a rare kind of calm.
I keep on keepin’ on. One day at a time. I don’t hunt happiness the way I used to. I try to catch the small, ordinary bliss instead. Happy Islands, I call them.
Because I juggle several book projects in parallel, it just worked out that we released four books in 2025: Malmö, Fears & Phobias, Österlen, and Abandoned – The Beauty of What Remains. The bestseller was the photo book Malmö – 490 of 500 copies sold. And once again: a big thank you for the help I’ve gotten from Charlotte and Maestro David Pahmp. This spring, a new book arrives – photographs from safaris in South Africa, Botswana, and Kenya.
The travels.
This year, I finally got to experience and document a couple of places I’ve carried around in my head for a long time: Hiroshima early in the year, and Svalbard in May. The contrast is almost tangible.
In total, during 2025, I checked into 34 different hotels in seven countries. A lot of those rooms were genuinely great – especially the ones with real mattress toppers. There should be legislation for them once you’re past fifty.
And then there were the others. Roughly a third of the rooms left plenty to be desired. Like, most recently, the Riverton in Gothenburg – where at least ten different design styles had been tossed into a blender with zero thoughtfulness, and the room felt bare, cold, and oddly put together. In my next life I’ll become a hotel-room designer – unless I come back as an albatross.
One of the year’s best trips took us to France. Elle and I celebrated Charlotte turning 60 with a beautiful hike along the French Riviera and a delicious dinner in old Nice – exactly the way my gorgeous sixty-year-old wife wanted it. She also got a lovely Danish ring. She deserved it. Anyone who lives with me through sunshine and sideways rain deserves some serious hardware.
My longing for the U.S. is still… lukewarm. Maybe I’ll wait until the most vile, corrupt, and pathologically narcissistic president in history – and his brainwashed choir – have cleared out of D.C.
This year, my half-siblings and I unfortunately lost contact completely. They’re tightening their grip on their tribes. If there’s one thing travel keeps teaching me, over and over, it’s that we have far more in common than what separates us – at least once we’ve peeled off the fairy tales and legends. Not to mention dogma and propaganda.
As Joni put it: “But I have no nationality, no race, no class. I’m a mutt.” And she sang it too: “Borderlines – roads, fences, they’re like cholesterol in the arteries.”
On the brighter side, I’m close with cousins on both my mom’s and dad’s side.
New year’s promises
I’m a believer in New Year’s resolutions – as long as we’re honest about what they are: lofty promises. At 62, I’m “fully baked.” So I keep my expectations realistic. I’m not about to become a different person overnight. A few degrees of course correction is plenty.
I usually do my reboot a week or so into January. It suits me better than making vows on the very night when champagne and sentimentality are doing their own little tango. The important thing is that you try. The attempt counts.
Not a resolution exactly, but intentionality will be my word for 2026. Which sounds contradictory, since I love embracing serendipity and often roll the dice whenever I can.
But something shifted after my most recent trip to Japan. I noticed the Japanese level of purposefulness – how little they do on autopilot, how rarely anything is half-assed – and how that mindset seems to seep into so much of daily life. Fascinating. Infectious.
In 2026, I want to stay clear of the smug, the stingy, and the ones who ration warmth and emotions. I want to be more open, more generous, and a few notches more humble.
Wishing everyone a truly Happy New Year, with health, and a lot of adventures we can inspire each other with.
Never give up. Never do nothing.
(Photo: Charlotte Raboff)
Rest in Peace Elaine Vickery
About an hour ago, just as we sat down to enjoy a simple Sunday dinner, I found out that I’ve lost my friend Elaine Vickery. She passed quietly last night in Santa Rosa, California.
Elaine and I first crossed paths when I was a little boy, and she was a young painter. Sometime in the late ’60s.
My father introduced us, and even though I don’t remember the meeting itself – I was too young – Elaine has, over the past five years, oddly enough, come to feel like part of my entire life. Like one of those threads you don’t see, but that still holds important chapters together.
She had been battling various illnesses for a long time, increasingly so in recent years.
But if I’m being completely honest, I don’t think Elaine died of any of her illnesses. I think she was simply tired of being alone. Her relationship with her son was fraught – neither easy nor good – and she got to see him – and her two grandsons – far too rarely.
I actually think Elaine died of a particular kind of sorrow – the kind that doesn’t sound very dramatic, but still eats you from the inside out.
Our contact really took off when she reached out to me five years ago – at the beginning of the pandemic. After that, it kept going, sometimes daily, until it abruptly ended yesterday. Her son Nate sent me the news a little while ago in a text.
In our correspondence, Elaine was consistently warm and generous. She could be gentle, but never mushy. She didn’t hold back on either critique or praise when I sent her projects I was working on, and that’s exactly why her words mattered. She wasn’t an applause machine. She was an artist – with real integrity.
Art was, naturally, one of our recurring topics, and I loved her naïve, direct painting style and her illustrations.
But Elaine was more than her creative output. She had a rare openness – an “artist’s mind” in the best sense: reflective, philosophical, curious, with a dry wit and a knack for naming feelings with precision when the energy was there, and the pain had eased.
Over time, I also understood something as human as it is brutal: Elaine’s mood swings were often pain-driven. I suspect anyone who’s lived with chronic illness can relate to that sentence.
The tone of her emails followed her body. When symptoms flared up she grew darker, more catastrophic in her thinking, more preoccupied with death – and with that question no one should have to ask, but pain can force on you anyway: Is it worth the fight?
When she felt better, she was lighter, funnier, more forward-looking – as if someone had turned the lights back up in the room.
She also carried a persistent fear of being a burden. At the same time there was a longing for closeness – with her son, her grandsons, her friends. And even with me, in that strange way that can happen between two people who don’t see each other often, but still become important to one another.
In her writing, there was both pride and vulnerability, sometimes in the very same sentence. Sometime last spring, Elaine began confiding in me about the need to create meaning as she could feel life shrinking.
She tried to organize her small house, sort things, plan, distribute her artwork – and she spoke openly about hospice and assisted dying. It wasn’t a cry for drama. It was more an attempt to make sure the final chapter, at the very least, was her own.
I thought about visiting Elaine in California. I thought about it many times. But as so often happens, I kept putting the trip off, prioritizing other places, other obligations.
I put Elaine on the “later” shelf. And now there is no “later” – only “too late.” One of life’s hardest lessons is that you think you have time, until you don’t.
I will remember Elaine as a friend, as an artist – and as a bright, affectionate person whose baseline optimism and humor made our emails and messages both inspiring and entertaining. Even in her fatigue, she was someone who could still see color in the gray. Someone who could point to what was beautiful, even when she herself struggled to reach it.
Rest in peace, dear friend.