Yesterday, I rented a nine foot longboard at one of maybe a half dozen small surf shops along Narigana Beach. It was cracked in several places but held up surprisingly well in yesterday’s choppy and occasionally violent waves.

After close to a year, it feels fantastic to surf again. And the water temperature and waves here remind me much more of those on Oahu, Hawaii than those along Santa Monica Beach. Not having to wear a wetsuit is pretty sweet.