The Swedish Boom

I’ve spoken to a few locals here, Swedes that have lived and had businesses for several years, decades even. The consensus is that there have never been as many Swedes living on or visiting the island as right now. With all the sun-depraved visitors flying in from Stockholm, Malmö, Göteborg and other cities, I suppose it’s not really surprising that Swedish seems to be the second most spoken language here in Palma. I don’t mean it’s a nascence (though you do have to watch what you say) – it’s just that after Bodrum, where we barely heard anyone from Scandinavia (but plenty from Holland and Turkey), it’s a little strange to hear so much Swedish chatter.

Aside from an absolutely terrible fish dish last night at an unnamed Swedish owned restaurant (but not La Perla), the food experience has been really good here.

Though much smaller, I could argue that the number of decent corner restaurants here in Palma is pretty much on par with what I’ve experienced in Barcelona. Like the ancient eatery El Puente, a new favorite place where we’ve already eaten a few times. Might even end up there tonight again. More images from Mallorca/Majorca here.


Perfect Timing

I think this could be my 20th visit to Majorca and I feel reasonably at home in Palma. At least as long as I stick to the center, that is. As soon I venture beyond Cala Major, things tend to get a bit hazy and everything looks more or less the same to me. Kinda like 50 shades of beige. I’ve been doing a lot of walking since arriving and today was no exception with more than 12k. This is absolutely the best time of year to visit Palma. It’s warm but not balmy, sunny but cool in the shade and nowhere nearly as crowded as it will inevitably be in about a month.

Above is a shot from a few years ago of a church in Soller.


Palma de Majorca

Just arrived in Palma de Majorca. It’s been less than a year since my last visit, but it’s always great to return to the island. Especially since when it’s sunny like today and about 10 degrees warmer than when I left Scandinvia at 06:05 am this morning.

The flight down with Norwegian was fairly smooth but I am experiencing a lot of less than smooth landings recently. Super impressed by how fast I got in to town. It’s Sunday morning, so there’s very little traffic. Still, 11 minutes flat is definitely the quickest I’ve ever covered the distance between the airport and Paseo Maritimo in a cab.

Shot the above image one evening during last year’s visit.


Vintrie by Hyllie

From earlier today over Vintrie, a small village adjacent to Malmö’s popular shopping Emporia and the region’s latest neighborhood, Hyllie. I was flying over the area capturing images for a client with several ongoing construction projects in the area. Tomorrow by this time of day, I’ll be in a climate much warmer than what we’ve got here.


Memory of an Old Tractor

I find it increasingly interesting how my memory works – especially so when it fails me. With my humungous computer archive (4TBs and counting), I obviously have the advantage of being able to recollect by looking through my images, videos and rereading articles I’ve penned.

I wonder if a day will come when I don’t recognize photos I’ve taken, videos I’ve shot or stories I have written.  Probably.

In an entirely different part of my memory, I recently find myself making these really interesting associations. Like for example, this old tractor we came across during our bike ride in rural Kos the other day.

As soon as I saw it parked on the edge of the field, I felt compelled to get off my bike and photograph it. But why? Perhaps because my maternal grandfather Eskil had a similar tractor back in the 1970s. I know I rode in the cabin with him a few times. And he might even have let me steer it, too. Don’t remember that level of detail, though. Heck, I don’t even recall what type of stuff he grew on the fields outside of Trollhättan. Wheat? Probably.

I wonder what a loaf of bread tasted like back then. Would it be more flavorful, healthier to eat and would the methods for growing the grain be better for the planet than what’s used today? Everything seemed less sinister in the 1960s and 1970s. Maybe I’m just naive. Probably.

My maternal grandmother, Eskil’s wife Agnes (which prepensely is Elle’s middle name) used to make a fluffy, yet wonderfully chewy flatbread that when eaten straight out of the oven and topped with home-churned butter and a generously thick slice of creamy cheese, put me in a state of calm that I’ve since never experienced.

Some mornings when I stayed with Agnes and Eskil, breakfast would consist of a slice of grandma’s delicious bread and a large cup of really sweet hot chocolate. I remember exactly where I sat at the small kitchen table with its wax tablecloth and window overlooking the road to the barn. To my left was grandpa, holding up the local paper and mumbling now and again about something he had just read. Rarely did Agnes take a load off and sit with me for breakfast.

There seemed to always be a ton of stuff to do in the kitchen, around the house or on the farm. Like making sure gramps had his lunch with him before he took the tractor parked out back and headed out in to the fields.

More photos from Bodrum and Kos are now available here.


Turkish Pool

From Charlotte’s and my afternoon pool session while in Bodrum, Turkey by the Mediterranean.


24 Hours in Bodrum

Shot this timelapse from our balcony yesterday. Not suffering from jetlag, yet I still wake up sometime between 4 and 5 am-ish, mainly for a pee, and can’t get back to sleep after that. So after yesterday’s awakening, I got the idea to capture a compressed 24 hours of our fabulous view.


Electric Ride on Kos

To add an excursion to our travel story about Bodrum, we ventured out to sea yesterday by jumping onboard a ferry to the neighboring Greek island of Cos.

I’ve been to Cos (Kos) before, but it was in my early twenties, so I just barely recognized myself. We rented a couple of electric bikes and rode them to Casa Cook, a boutique hotel Charlotte was keen on seeing live and which was about 25k northwest of Cos town. While there, we ate a pretty good lunch before returning along a beautiful coastal road that led us back. Before getting back on the boat to Türkey, we stopped at one of  many identical harbor cafés for an ice cream, coffee and a small glass of Ouzo.

Being that Türkey borders to Syria and several Greek islands, including Kos, still have refugee camps, there was a small but rigorous immigration procedure we had to pass through at each country’s port. No big lines, though and everything went super smooth. Not sure this will be the case once high season kicks in a month from now.


Putty Cat

Of all the cities, towns and hamlets I’ve visited throughout Europe, I can’t recall seeing so many cats as there are here in Bodrum. They’re literally everywhere.

Met the above Lazy Bones Jones furry feline absorbing today’s late afternoon sun which was pouring in from one of the windows in a shop down by Bodrum’s cozy little harbor. There’s no shortage of stores selling knick-knacks here. But we’ve also visited a few really snazzy boutiques stocked with a collection of quality apparel priced (according to Charlotte) at about 50% below what we’d pay in Sweden.

There’s more than just cats here. I’ve seen several dozen dogs. Big ones, too. No donkies, though. Not yet, anyway. We’re heading over to Kos tomorrow. So there’s a decent chance we might meet a few hee-hawas while there.


Bodrum, Türkey

Late last night, after about 12 hours of traveling, Charlotte and I finally checked into the Voyager here in Bodrum. It’s actually our very first time staying at an all-inclusive hotel and so, as part of the checkin process, we we’re both equipped with opaque, logo branded, plastic wristbands and politely encouraged to wear them at all time during our stay here.

Not that I have much experience from hospitals, but I associate plastic armbands with something they make you wear at a hospital. Mine fell off sometime during last night’s restless sleep, so I’ve now got it neatly tucked away in the left pocket of my white shorts. We just had breakfast and no one working the morning shift in the dining hall asked me to identify myself. Possibly because Charlotte’s plastic bracelet was clearly visible.

The breadth of the buffet was nothing short of magnificent and it wasn’t easy resisting overindulgence. Especially when I discovered the subsection of olives. The variety was extraordinary and in one of the many bowls I found one type that had a pit that in itself was bigger than the largest olive I’ve ever seen before.

We’re in here to research for a travel story for Charlotte’s popular site Hotell Addict about Bodrum – which has been on our destination list for at least a couple of years.

This is only our second visit to Türkey (adding a couple of dots to the ü is just too irresistible) with Istanbul being the first. We absolutely loved Istanbul.

The weather here in Bodrum, at least this time of year, is just how I like it, Californian warm and sunny. There’s even a few palm trees down by the beach. Photo: Charlotte Raboff


Confidentiality & Little Fishes

A friend pointed out the other evening – over a glass or two of summertime wine – that my climate change motivated intention at the onset of 2019 to travel less was failing miserably.

I thought of this while showering a few minutes ago. The warm water took a little longer than usual to arrive and I caught myself feeling impatient by the delay.

I could argue that unlike many other business travellers, or, as I like to call them, “corporate seagulls” who constantly fly from meeting to meeting and likely spend more time in airport lounges than they do with their families (let alone experiencing much of the places they travel to), my travels document destinations and I share my impressions – in words and visuals – with many thousands of people. Though I these days rarely produce much for Swedish travel magazines, once my work is published on, for example, www.airlinestaffrates.com under Travel Tips or on the site’s companion Facebook page, over 170,000 people can read it.

Conversely, one could argue that my travel stories only encourage more people to board fossil fuel burning planes, cars, buses and boats.

After almost 20 years of professional travelling, it’s going to be unimaginably difficult to change my ways. I am prepared, however, just as soon as I find the perfect place to settle down at. A place so immaculately beautiful, socially and ethnically heterogeneous yet remarkably affordable, warm and clean, that my need to travel will be forever quenched. Tips, anyone? Maui comes to mind…aside from the affordable side of that island (where it’s anything but affordable).

The little fishies above gave their lives to a sauce or stew at some streetside restaurant in Asia of which I have no recollection.


Strangler Figs in Cambodia

From last year’s re-visit to one of the astonishing “Strangler Figs” at Ta Prohm temple, near Angkor Wat in Cambodia. There’s something both spooky and frightful, yet also reassuring and comforting when nature reclaims manmade structures like this tree has.

I want to believe that everyone who has dedicated the current climate change debacle a thought or two, has felt similar sentiments. That no matter how hard we try, and boy have we tried harder than any other species on Earth, our planet will eventually loosen the stranglehold we’ve inflicted on it and evolve just fine without us.

More images from Cambodia can be viewed here.


Healthy Food and Yoga

Just finished an hour of twisting and bending. Got up at 05:00 am, about a minute before my alarm went off. Startting the day with qigong and yoga is like giving yourself a generous gift that keeps on giving all day long. Most of my aches and pains and any negative thoughts or seemingly insurmountable challenges I might perceive to have are gone by the end of the session – dispersed like clouds clearing from a worried sky.

I discovered yoga about two years ago and have been hooked ever since. It’s now my go-to remedy and keeps me honest and aware of my body’s current state. But you know what? I don’t buy into all the hokus pokus stuff often connected with yoga. Nothing wrong with spiritualism, just as long as it’s kept personal and not dictatorial. Heck I don’t even know most of the sanskrit names of all the animals I’m supposedly posing as. It doesn’t matter. In essence, Yoga is just a collective name for an ancient workout. No more no less. When anybody tries to tell you differently, their just preaching religion. And we’ve all recently heard about the tragedies in Sri Lanka and why we all need to stay clear of dogmas and mysticism…

After a relatively calm Easter with lots of tasty food in Göteborg and especially after yesterday’s “heavy” Easter dinner with a ton of herring, salmon and creamy sauces, my body’s yearning for lighter, plant-based food. Something akin to the salad above, shot with the Leica Q in Costa Rica during our visit 2017.


Göteborg

From the week’s two-day visit to Göteborg. I’ve wanted to revisit some of my old neighborhoods and places where I’d once lived. Just to refresh my memory and take a few snapshots for the archives.

On Thursday, I walked from the downtown hotel where I was staying and headed northeast along Friggagatan (lived there for a year), up to Redbergsplatsen and down to Gustavsplatsen (my first ever apartment for two years).

I then trekked up to Strömmensberg, down from there to Härlanda, through Kålltorp (where I lived for about a year with aunt Lillemor and her partner Karl-Erik when I arrived in Sweden in the summer of 1978) and Kålltorpskolan where went to 9th grade and finally, via Torp, Örgryte and Liseberg, up via Götaplatsen to Vidblicksgatan 5 in Johanneberg, which was the very last place I lived in Göteborg.

In all, it turned out to be a five hour, nearly 20km walk down memory lane.

The above little video doodle (shot handheld with my iPhone), of sculptor Carl Milles masterpiece “Poseidon” was from one of the very last stops before meeting up with a late but nonetheless well-deserved Easter themed lunch with old buddy Tommy Sahlin.


Gotland & Fårö

After the weekend on Gotland, I’ve spent some time sifting through my vast collection of photos from just shy of 30 years of visiting the island and neighboring Fårö. I remember being awestruck by how beautiful the landscape was and totally seduced by Visby those first few days back in 1990.

I had moved to Visby after being accepted to Gotland’s Konstskola (art school) and had somehow managed to rent a small house just inside the north gate of the town’s medieval ring wall. The house wasn’t fancy by any means, but it did have a kitchen, bathroom, a small living room and another room where I set up my easel, paints and brushes. It was an idyllic time where my art and photography developed and thrived.

Here’s a collection of photos from Gotland and a bunch from Fårö.


Back in Visby

It’s been a little more than a year since I was on Gotland – and judging from today’s brisk cold wind, it feels almost like it’s February – which was when the last visit took place. It’s no secret that I’ve had a long love affair with this island. I love shooting here and writing travel stories about why a visit should be on everyone’s bucket lists.

We arrived late afternoon and had just enough time to check in at the hotel and freshen up before it was time to head over to Munkkällaren, or, in localese, “Munken” where a huge celebration of my old buddy Timmy Skinner’s 50th birthday was about to commence. Met a lot of ancient friends at the party, most I’d not seen in many, many years. I probably missed a few cause I couldn’t recognize them or them me. The one constant here is the thousand year old ring wall which I got a few good shots of today – despite the cold weather.


Easter Candy

Looks as if most of Easter 2019 will be celebrated in Malmö – or, at least in the general vicinity. We’ve spent several Easters in Vejbystrand over the years with plenty of egg hunting, egg throwing and egg eating to last me a while. I was in a new grocery store yesterday and they had a long row of knee deep containers full of various kinds of colorful Easter candy. Like the raspberry chews above.

While I was walking down the aisle, looking at all the sugarcoated candy got me thinking that there has had to have been at least a few scientists, perhaps some with PhDs in chemistry involved in deciding how sweet, sour, salty or bitter a particular candy was going to be. Not to mention discerning the exact color, texture and how chewy a gummy bear or wriggly snake would turn out.

I mean, there’s has to be several laboratories around the world where serious, well-educated men and women in white coats spend most of their workday mixing chemicals to make candy products that the marketing departments and product managers for successful candy companies like
#Haribo, #Malaco and #Fazer have decided will sell well in grocery stores like the one I visited yesterday.


Visit The Norrmans

About a year ago, Charlotte and I visited The Norrmans Bed & Breakfast about an hour south of Copenhagen. Lars and Anna took great care of us (as they did with their other guests) and though we only stayed a night, we we’re overwhelmed by how different the atmosphere was from just about any other overnight place we’d ever been to in Scandinavia.

It was as if the two of us had discovered a whole new category of accommodations. I mean, after decades of staying at large and small hotels all around the world – with varying levels of service, comfort and noteworthy dining encounters, what the Norrmans were offering was something totally different. I guess I’d characterize it as an intensely personal guest house experience set in a beautiful Danish homestead milieu.

From what I’ve gathered from their Instagram posts, the couple haven’t exactly been resting on their laurels. On contraire, The Normmans seem busy as can be with new ventures – including a shop full of quirky, cool stuff in one of the farm’s barns. Not sure if we’ll have time for a visit this year, but you never know! Yup, that’s me standing in the dirt on the parkiing lot.


Affenpinscher Okondja

Rummaging through one of my archives today, I stumbled across several photos of Okondja, the cute and wild Affenpinscher I shot in my old studio a few years back. As friendly as she was, I can’t see myself ever owning a dog that small. They’re just too twitchy and skittish. But cute, very cute. Sadly, I’ve heard that Okondja sometime after moving to South Africa passed away. More of my dog photos from around the world can be viewed here.


The Butterfly

From yesterday’s morning shoot at Kockum Fritid with model and former competitive swimmer, Gustav Åberg Lejdström. The Butterfly stroke, or,  the “Fly” as it’s called among competitive swimmers, is something I never even attempted as a young member of the West Hollywood Park Swim Team in the late 1970s or during my short time at S02 in Göteborg in the early 1980s.

Back in the day, I swam the Crawl/Freestyle and won a few swim meets as a sprinter in the 100 yard distance. I think the Butterfly stroke is really interesting as it mimics both a dolphin’s tail movement and the wing flap of a butterfly. During peak speed, the Butterfly stroke is apparently the fastest of all styles. Which I saw some proof of yesterday while trying to capture the above shot. Took me a good 100 tries before I got it right.