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Time to Ramble On
Nearing the end of my 20 session, two week intensive Qigong course. It’s indisputably been a challenge, both physically and mentally. Most of the other participants are already instructors or heading that way. So, I’ve been practicing together with quite an esteemed troop – which in turn has provided me with the opportunity to learn and understand the foundation of Medical Qigong at a much deeper level than what most new arrivals are privy to. Learning by doing has always been my life’s motto and so I feel very excited about returning home with a mind full of mindful Qigong knowledge.
Now, I’ve only scratched the surface and will need oodles of hours practicing and additional guidance to absorb and integrate what I have learned to eventually reap the benefits of Medical Qigong. But the journey has most certainly begun. The question is, is there, or, rather, can there ever be an end to this path I’ve stepped onto? Probably not.
The above photo is from just outside my homestay, Stay with Brite. I still don’t know exactly where the house is located (even if I look it up on a map). But it can’t be all that far from Chiang Mai airport, now can it?
I’m going to be genuinely sad about leaving this place. After these two very pleasant weeks with the genuine Thai family at Stay with Brite, I will definitely consider “homestay” as a sensible option when I want to get away from the often superficially, antiseptic hotel experiences. That said, I am kinda looking forward to checking in at the roomy “aparthotel” I’ve got lined up for my few days in Krung Thep. Time to ramble on…
Therapy or Musical Chairs?
One day, I just happened to arrive about a half an hour early to one of our Qigong sessions in Chiang Mai at a local University (which I was told was entirely funded by the US government). And since the chairs were organized in a proper circle, it reminded me of what a group therapy seating might look like. Maybe even an AA meeting or something. Perhaps something less serious, like musical chairs but on a high, academic level. In any case, I just couldn’t resist the temptation to somehow make use of the room during my wait.
Tonight’s Dinner: Pad Thai Tofu
Just had to share tonight’s dinner, a homemade Pad Thai Tofu dish that tasted exactly as splendid as it looks. I had kindly requested that Pak Chi Farang (Long Leaf Coriander or, Sawtooth Coriander) would be added to the meal. And then all I had to do to get it exactly where I wanted it to be spice-sour-sweet-wise, was to sprinkle a few generous pinches of chili flakes and squeeze some zest from a half a lime over those crushed peanut covered noodles and I was good to go. As the homestay’s “resident photographer”, I’ve kinda taken it upon myself to document each and every meal my gracious host serves me (with my iPhone, so it’s a little bit of challenge). Tonight’s dish was extraordinarily photogenic.
Sunday Market in Chiang Mai
There’s no course for me on Sundays, so I waited for my clean laundry to arrive and then went to Chiang Mai’s popular Sunday Market in the old town.
The trick to getting the most out of any kind of open-air, tourist-focused market is to be an early bird and get there just as the shop owners are opening up their stalls. That’s what I did yesterday and as soon as the hordes started pouring in, I booked a Grab (Über here in SE Asia) and went back to my quiet little teak house.
September Exhibits
In September, I’m having two separat exhibits. Both in Malmö. One is an outdoor show between September 15th and the 29th in our beautiful Slottsträdgården, an area dedicated to flowers and other flora and located in Castle Park (Slottsparken). The other will be held during Gallery Night (gallerinatten) at Rådhuset at Malmö’s Stortorget (the city’s Big Square) on September 28th and daytime on the 29th.
While the theme for the first exhibit will be aerial photographs of some of Malmö’s most iconic places, aptly called “Malmö Upside Down”, the second – and unnamed – show will be entirely dedicated abstract images inspired by the city’s industrial past.
Hope to see some of you there!
Qigong: Infusing Healthy Confusion
It’s been an incredibly interesting week at the Qigong course where confusion is at times replaced with clarity and understanding, only to be smothered later with yet more confusion.
I don’t mean confusion as in what’s being taught is by any means nonsensical or, that I ‘m not getting it. Not at all. It’s just that there’s so much to learn and that even when I try hard, I still get confused as to what to prioritize and how to store the knowledge I’m exposed to in a sequence that helps me lower the inevitable steep learning curve and perennially improve my training.
Our teacher, Arjan, works through his system in an organic, non-linear way. Which, when coming from Sweden, where everything is organized and structured in absurdum, was initially a little perplexing. But within a day or two, I had let go of that excessively orderly approach and decided to go with the flow. Instead of forcing my projected expectations (based on how things are done elsewhere), I decided to just listen, replicate what I saw and had heard and merely accept that time will eventually come when I’m ready to understand the answers to my many queries. That answering them now in the inception phase would only add to my incertitude and probably make even learning incrementally more difficult.
I am curious by nature and conditioned by the society I live in. This new perspective on implementing something before actually understanding what it is, based at least initially only on faith and trust, certainly makes for an interesting, intellectual challenge. My gut feeling tells me this could be a healthy way for me to learn new things going forward.
At 56, taking on something so wide and deep as learning (even the basics) about Qigong is invigorating. For even if I sometimes feel like my head is going to explode from the constant stream of new things we go through during each session, I am already conscious of the tangible, positive physical effects the training is having on my arthritis.
One may think Qigong would not be anywhere near as exerting as, say, a long run or a spinning class can be. But let me tell you, after a five hour day filled with various full-body stances and movements as well as arm blocks and kicks – all done repetitively in slow, controlled sequences, I’m as exhausted as if I’d run 15k, but without any lasting muscular fatigue that I usually associated with jogging. One of the key upshots I noticed today (when we spent most of the afternoon doing slow motion kicking) was that it took only minutes to recover – and that afterwards, I was super energized, albeit still very, very sweaty.
It’s interesting – and possibly a cultural issue – how much exercise has come to be defined by a level of almost debilitating exertion. The immense popularity of crossfit training being just one of many examples of ways for folks to get a few hours of hard, physical activity integrated into their often stressful, jam-packed lives.
From what I understand so far about Qigong, especially medical Qigong, is that what one can learn will have positive physical, mental and possibly spiritual implications on a timeline that extends far beyond what just goes on whilst practicing. And it is exactly that prospect – the width and breadth of benefits brought forth from Qigong, as a means to both heal and to stay healthy in the long-term, that got me here in the first place.
The umbrellas above are totally unrelated to this post. Well, as they’re probably made in China, the origin country of Qigong, I guess one could argue that there is after all, though far-fetched, a connection.
Thai Market
Some afternoons after class, I walk around the old town and shoot textures and basically anything that grabs my attention. There’s something very meditative about photography when it’s unhinged from any particular mission or objective. Very enjoyable, indeed.
If I’m in town long enough, I’ll then hitch a ride with my host, Khun Dow, the mother of the family where I’m staying. She runs a small vegetable shop at a medium-sized market a few blocks outside Chiang Mai’s old town.
The market is in the middle of a busy residential neighborhood and you can buy just about every imaginable variation of fruit, vegetables, fish and flowers there. I love Asian food markets and especially those in Thailand where there is always an abundance of smells, colors and sounds to keep me busy.
I got to “Kit Kom” market a little early yesterday and walked around the block a couple of times. It was about 7:00 pm (we leave for the homestay at 7:30 pm) and the area’s sidewalk shops were about to close. The sun had just gone down and the day’s heat was slowly dissipating. Folks were just hanging around, chatting and I guess getting ready to head home. During my wait, I walked passed and smiled at the flower lady, complimenting her beautiful arrangements (with my limited Thai vocabulary). Like most people here, her default facial expression was covered in a smile, so she beamed back and thanked me politely.
I’ve always wondered why it’s so easy for some people to smile so spontaneously and so seemingly hard for others.
I am now into my second week at the Qigong course and things are intensifying. Which is good, as long as I can replicate my learnings upon returning home…
The fifteenth of August, 1998. Twenty one years ago today. That’s when Charlotte and I exchanged rings just before we were pronounced man and wife by the family priest, Ola Stålnacke in Brunnby Church, near Mölle-by-the-Sea in Skåne. It rained most of that day, and boy, was I nervous before and during most of the wedding ceremony. But afterwards, as we climbed onto the horse driven carriage, or, perhaps it wasn’t until the Rolls picked us up a little further down the country road, that I started to relax. We had an amazing wedding party during the evening with a whole bunch of great friends and plenty of family.
Our marriage has been consistently smooth, with only minor bumps and hicups along the way. I know of only a few other couples that have been married as long as we have and that still enjoy each others company as much as Charlotte and I do.
It’s certainly a little sad being so far apart on our anniversary. But thanks to FaceTime, we’ll chat later this afternoon about our wedding 21 years ago today.
Charlotte, happy anniversary, my love!
Medical Qigong & Detox
Got to the morning session a little early today and took a few photos around the clinic’s garden. It’s called a clinic because of the focus on benefits gained from learning and practicing the Chinese Medical Qigong system taught there.
Today a lovely couple in their 80s joined us for a few hours and I understood that both have been helped tremendously by practicing Qigong.
As part of this journey, I am detoxing from all kinds of deleterious habits. For one, there is very little stress in my life right now and I’m eating just about as healthy food as I can get my hands on. Just fruit and nuts during the morning and midday break, and then a sumptuous, hot meal for dinner after returning home. I drink plenty of water and a few rounds of green tea during my 5-6 hours at the clinic. But nothing stronger than that. It feels good to eat less and yet not feel hungry or be without energy. I can also tell that I’m slowly shaving off some of that “spare tire” I’ve been carrying around for a while.
Learning Qigong
Walked passed this wonderful bookstore a couple of days ago in the old town of Chiang Mai. A younger version of me used to read a lot of books, fiction and non-ficktion. For at least a decade I was a huge Stephen King fan and read everything he produced. But it’s probably been a dozen or more years since I last read a book. I do read a lot, but it’s all online. I’ve actually been thinking of buying an e-reader, a Kindle maybe, but haven’t gotten around to it.
“We are buried beneath the weight of information, which is being confused with knowledge; quantity is being confused with abundance and wealth with happiness.”
I read that quote by Tom Waits somewhere and it seemed so apt in this day and age.
It’s been about a week since I arrived and my focus is now entirely on the course I’m taking in Medical Qigong. While learning the theory of each series of motions isn’t difficult per ce, coordinating the body within each movement definitely is.
My emphasis right now is on understanding and then recreating the instructor’s movements as best I can. Much of what I am learning and how it effects the body (and mind) is revelatory. As usual, practice makes perfect. So benefits will take time to arrive. But I already feel invigorated.
Chiang Mai Guacamole
Khun Dow, my host here at the homestay, continues to impress me with her excellent cooking. Everything she makes for me taste like it’s the original recipe. The massaman curry she served the other night was just superb. A simple yet so full of flavor, aroma and texture. What I enjoy most about Thai food is how relatively uncomplicated it is – and should be – both to cook and to enjoy.
I took a cooking class up here in the north once (I’ve probably taken 3 or 4 around the country, all-in-all) where a Thai chef politely pointed out the immensely popular misconception that Thai cuisine has to be super spicy. According to him, nothing could be further from the truth and only the ignorant serve food so hot it can’t be eaten without breaking into a sweat.
To this chef, the fundamental philosophy should be – for anyone trying to make Thai food – to create an equilibrium between sweetness, sourness, saltiness and bitterness – and umami, when meat is involved.
While eating dinner tonight, I noticed a tall wooden bowl sitting next to me. It was teeming with dark green fruits of some kind. The dining room was dimly lit and my eyes don’t exactly excel in poor lighting. I figured it was a local fruit I’d not yet tried. Khun Dow sat down opposite me and asked how I liked the Pad Thai Tofu she’d made for dinner. I told it was very tasty and that she should really consider opening up a restaurant in or near her homestay. She laughed and said she might just do that one day.
As I continued to grab noodles and tofu with my chopsticks, my host took one of those green oval shaped fruits and cut it up with a small knife. To my surprise, it turned out that those green things were avocados, grown locally on the hills that surround Chiang Mai.
Avocados have always been somewhat of a luxury item here in Thailand. You can get them at most supermarkets where western goodies are sold, but they’ll usually cost a lot more than in Europe and are nowhere near as flavorful as in the US, Mexico or Indonesia (where, for example, on Bali, there’s an abundance of avocados).
Anyway, I told Khun Dow enthusiastically how ridiculously popular guacamole is in America and Europe and then asked if I could have a bowl, a lime fruit, some salt and chili flakes.
As soon as she provided me with what I needed, I showed my host how to make a rudimentary version of my famous guacamole. She liked the taste and totally understood the potential if she one day did open a restaurant. Her only qualm was pronouncing guacamole. But I broke it up into manageable syllables for her and we practiced for a few minutes. Before I left for the evening, I wrote down “gua-ca-mo-le” in her paper notebook. Khun Dow looked up at me, smiled and said, “Homework!”. Tomorrow she’s promised to buy all the ingredients needed to take my guac to the next level.
Considering the aforementioned bad lighting situation, I am amazed at how well I was still able to grab the shot above with my iPhone X Max S. The camera (and related software) is freakingly usable, even in really shitty light.
Monsoon Me
Got caught in one of our daily thunderstorms yesterday.
It’s monsoon season here, so I’m not exactly taken aback by the frequency of torrential downpour. The trick, however, is when the floodgates of heaven do open up, you need to be somewhere dry and pleasant. Like sitting in a comfy café or a getting a foot massage. I didn’t have the luxury of choosing anything other than shelter yesterday afternoon when the storm hovered above downtown Chiang Mai.
I just barely had enough time to make it under a ramshackle hut next to a wat (temple). It took about an hour for the gates of heaven to close again and in the meantime, I shot the above clips from the vantage point of my tiny, mostly dry refuge.
The humidity level is tangibly high after a storm here. If it was 85% before the rain, it soars to at least 100% directly afterwards. The two pair of sneakers I brought with me are both soaked and will likely take days to dry. Might have to buy a third pair today when I visit a co-working space located in a fancy mall that one of my fellow students mentioned after Friday’s class. Or, maybe just get some rain boots…
Abstract Urban Art
Shot this beautifully aged and decrepit wall in some alley here in Chiang Mai. I can’t get enough of this kind of abstract urban art. I don’t “read” in much to what I see. Instead, I just find it interesting when I locate a series of scuff marks, wall cracks, chipped paint and crater holes create a visally compelling composition.
For about a decade, I‘ve developed a deep appreciation for the cross-section where form, function, and fate meet. It’s kind of like a “Duchampian” approach to the beauty of ordinary things, shapes and textures – all easily accessible in our urban environments – that have come to rot, rust and decay in a way that strikes a chord within my soul. Some of what I find ends up as integrated elements or ingredients in my art.
Unsocial Me
For a while now, I’ve been promising myself to once again quit, or, at least take another prolonged break from the confines and shackles of social media. Studying Qigong below the hills of Chiang Mai seemed like an optimal opportunity to initiate this decision.
My main argument is and has always been that these channels, apps or whatever the fuck you want to call them, prove time and time again to have a degenerative influence on my creativity and emotional balance.
When I arrived here in Asia a few days ago, I deleted Instagram, the only social media app installed on my phone. It took a few hours getting used to not unlocking the phone’s screen several times a day and flipping through what my online and offline friends and family have been up to. And unsurprisingly, I do not miss the infinite cavalcade of mundane escapades, jam-packed group selfies, life quotes or the “kum ba yah” gospel some try so hard to channel. Not even a little bit.
I’m not totally consitent – once in a while I’ll use my laptop to post a photo or a video on this page. But that habit is also falling on the wayside.
About a year ago, a press photographer and a journalist I’d met tried to convince me of how important social media actually was. How being active had provided them with assignments and valuable connections. They seemed to think I was foolish to not see the glowing benefits and all the low-hanging fruit of opportunities waiting to be picked in the fields in between posts, comments and likes.
I know there are edge cases, circumstances and situations that help argue social medias existence. But like most folks, both of those dudes were way too intoxicated from their addiction to be able to think straight and dispassionately about social medias overshadowing influence on their lives or the amount of wasted awake time they spent on a bloated myth that online interconnectivity really augments the quality of life.
Over the years, I’ve spent a great deal of time trying to figure out how to make use of social media. Either as a source for artistic inspiration or by using it as a means to share my love of photography and art. To inspire others, you know? While I’ve failed miserably at the former, I know from feedback that some of those that follow my work in Västra Hamnen and in Santa Monica are inspired by my creativity. And I am sincerely happy if I have added even just a little shine to their lives.
That said, I have still always felt a deep, disproportionate relationship with social media. It simply takes way more than it adds to my life. It’s a conundrum how so many respectable, well-educated souls seem to genuinely feel their lives have improved significantly ever since we all gained the ability to share it online in realtime. It really boggles the mind.
I don’t know exactly when I’ll wave a final goodbye to all my social media endeavors. But as I’m currently on a galvanizing journey with the ambitious goal of releasing a lot more of my creative energy by using Qigong to re-connect or rewire my body, mind, and soul, this could happen anytime. If my only outlet for sharing thoughts, ideas and creative efforts is here on this site, so be it. I’ve been posting somewhat regularly here for more than 13 years and will gladly continue. In the grand scheme of worldly things, I honestly don’t think “unsocial me” should worry about the fear of missing out.
ASMR: Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response
Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response, abbreviated ASMR, is where some people experience that certain repetitive sounds and visuals are extremely satisfying to listen to and watch.
What exactly triggers an ASMR reaction is up to individual preference, but can include as mundane things as people mixing stuff, kneading dough or clay, walking in a quiet forest, eating super-crunchy food, drinking through a straw or, like in my video above, seeing and hearing water drops from a fountain I filmed yesterday just outside of Chiang Mai’s old town wall.
There’s an element of translike meditation involved with ASMR and some seem even to be able fall asleep easier while listening to sounds that trigger an Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response. But from what I’ve recently seen on Youtube, there’s a plethora of really obscure ASMR videos out there, particularly those which are food-theme. I’m thinking there might also be a level of perversity at play here. Like this one.
Dude in Old Town
I met this dude briefly during a walk around the old town yesterday afternoon. He surprised me by saying something in English as I was getting a shot of the old wooden house next to his. Don’t remember what it was he said, but the fact that he had spoken to me (and chuckled afterward) signaled to me that taking a closup portrait of him wouldn’t be completely impossible.
Old Town CM
Turned out I was right and I got a couple of decent shots of the fella – considering the only lens I had with me was a wide 23 mm lens. Of all the walk-around lenses I’ve ever used, the Fujinon XF16mm f1.4 is by far a favorite. It’s light, light-sensitive and produces edge-to-edge sharpness. And if you just get close enough to your subject, it works great for street portraits.
Coconut Coriander
The mother in the Thai family that has the homestay where I’ll be for the next couple of weeks, cooks me dinner every night after returning home from her vegetable shop at the Kat Kom market in Chiang Mai. They probably don’t get a lot of guests that are pescatarians, but she still has no problem whatsoever conjuring delicious meals for me. Like last night’s coconut noodle and tofu soup topped with freshly chopped coriander. Two flavors that blend tremendously well.
The Toilet Roll Holder
I spent most of my 30 hour stay in Bangkok – before boarding the night train to Chiang Mai – at a basic, yet clean and quiet, hotel/hostel located not more than a 15 minute walk from the capital’s central station, aka Hua Lamphong, in Chinatown.
The room I’d booked was perfect for my needs and even came with a decent top-floor view of the neighborhood – and if I’d only been able to open the damn window (it was sealed), I might have taken a shot of it.
After years of traveling and staying in hundreds of different hotels, guest houses, hostels and dormitories, I finally found a WC where someone had evidently made an extra effort to place the toilet roll holder in the worst possible place. Though not visible in the above shot, they could have mounted it on the opposite wall facing the toilet seat. But no, that would have made toilet life too easy!
For my age – and despite enduring the stiffness from mild arthritis, I am still surprisingly flexible. But I ain’t Houdini, David Blaine or Nadia Comăneci. So the only way to reach for the toilet paper was to sit up, lift off from the seat, twist 180 degrees, grab a suitable amount of paper, sit down again and, well, you know, clean up. And as we all experience from time to time, one may need to grab a second round of paper before the job is done. Fortunately, I’m on a intermittent fasting schedule right now, so I only had to endure one of these contortionist sessions.
As per usual when I encounter wacky impracticalities at places I stay at, which happens frequently – even at fancy places – I vigorously yearn to speak with the individual whom decided where to place the toilet roll holder. Who knows, perhaps I’d even uncover a humanistic perspective to their decision process
Ford Anglia & Qigong
Charlotte is fascinated whenever I can identify a car brand or share some obscure knowledge about automobiles. I’m the first to admit that my interest is mysteriously unexplainable. I don’t drive and just barely know how to refuel a car, so why I can state distinguishing facts about different car manufacturers is just plain weird. It might have to do with being exposed to an unhealthy dose of television ads for cars while growing up in the US.
I stumbled onto this Ford Anglia earlier today while walking around Chiang Mai’s old town. The turquoise paint job coupled with the car’s quirky design gave it a certain “jolie laide” quality that I found irresistible. I looked it up, and it seems this model might just have left the Ford factory line in 1963.
I’m staying with a local family a few kilometers outside of Chiang Mai so I will be closer to a school where I’m attending an intensive training course in the ancient Chinese practice of Qigong. The course starts on Friday and I’m excited about taking what I know today about Qigong, to an entirely new and heightened level.
Tasty Train Treat
I don’t remember when I last took a night train to Chiang Mai. It could quite possibly have been as far back as 1998 when Charlotte and I spent a week of our month-long honeymoon trekking the mountains somewhere north of Chiang Mai and south of Chiang Rai, sharing meals and sleeping over at several distinctly different hillside hosts, including the Akha, Lahu, Karen, and Hmong tribes. It was a similar adventure to one I’d had ten years earlier (1988) with an old friend (Magnus Ekström), and absolutely worth re-experiencing.
Of all the ways of traveling from point A to point B, trains easily top my list. I really love trains and have taken them across southwest USA, all over Europe, a bit of India, sped across a stretch of Japan on the Shinkansen and ridden both up and down the Malay Peninsula between Bangkok and Singapore.
Trains are of course slow, but offer a far superior social and visual experience when compared with planes. Not to mention how incomparably more pleasurable train stations are to airports.
Back in the late 1980s, I took a night train from Göteborg to Riksgränsen (Swedish Lapland) a few times and remember how wonderful it was to first be served a decent meal in the dining car and then enjoy a film in the adjacent movie car (where they even served freshly nuked popcorn!).
Last night’s dinner (above) won’t take up much space in the constantly expanding archive of most memorable meals, but it was tasty, albeit pricey, nonetheless. All vegetarian and freshly made in the train’s restaurant/kitchen car.
Inside our train car
Significantly more striking was instead how upgraded the 2nd Class sleeper train cars were. While the sleeping comfort wasn’t improved much, there was a huge difference in how new and modern-looking the interior was – including the onboard toilets – from what I remember riding in more than two decades ago. Which might not be so surprising, unless when thinking of how sadly archaic and fatigued most Swedish trains still are today. Swedish trains are, when not delayed, considerably faster, though. On the other hand, I really enjoyed watching the landscape slide by in slow motion as we made our way through thick forest on the way up north.