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Return to Berlin
Getting ready for my seventh or eighth visit to Berlin and ITB, the annual international travel trade show. In the beginning of March, the German capital can be windy and cold. But at ITB, the heat is on and we’re looking forward to meeting old friends and getting to know a few new faces.
Paying Rent
“I ache in the places where I used to play.”
Leonard Cohen wrote that line decades ago, and while I am by no means a huge fan, I have a lot of respect for his art and perseverance.
Even though he was far younger than I am today when he sang it, that particular line drew me into the song. At first, I thought it was mostly about physical pain. Aching knees. Stiff back. Weakening eyes. Shoulders that once carried a load without complaint. There were many risks I took without hesitation. Physical demands I met without resistance. Then one day, I noticed that I was often negotiating with myself.
Can I really deliver this?
Should I take on that project?
Do I still have something to say?
Does anyone even care?
Today, I’m about ten years older than Cohen was when he wrote Tower of Song. But aging doesn’t always begin when you get old. For me, the onset of arthritis invited aging much sooner. Nowadays, I feel debilitating fatigue after a long day, and when I sit uncomfortably, even for just a few minutes, I’m reminded that sciatica never really heals.
And then there’s artistic ache.
The world accelerates. Tools change. AI now generates images, text, and music. I can either complain about it or learn to use it. I can either declare decline or adapt and attempt to evolve. The temptation to romanticize “how it used to be” is sometimes too strong.
Cohen didn’t romanticize.
He didn’t say he owned the Tower of Song. He said he was paying rent inside of it – just like all artists committed to their creative calling. Paying rent means showing up. Continuing. Accepting that being an artist isn’t a title – it’s a responsibility.
You owe it to the gift you have been given to create and to share.
I don’t get to live off yesterday’s work forever. I have to contribute, or see myself drift downward into abysmal obscurity. I choose to work. To revise. To adapt. To endure.
There’s quiet dignity in acceptance. In moving forward. Maybe not as a Shinkansen but as a steam-powered locomotive. Chugging somewhat steadily along, focused more on the here and now than on the past.
As I work on new books, refine writing, curate images, obsess over covers, and experiment with tools that didn’t exist two years ago, I recognize something: my aches haven’t stopped me. Instead, the pain has sharpened me and forced me to focus more on the really important stuff.
If that’s the rent I have to pay with age, I still feel solvent.
The image above is a self-portrait from the book New York City, available for order by clicking here.
From Lingonberries to Pork Sausage: A Life at the Stove
Culinarily, I’m omnivorous. My food preferences are as varied as my DNA, or, the different places I’ve visited and lived. I eat just about everything – though if it even remotely reminds me of liver, you can count me out. I’m not big on game meat, either, which can often come with that liver-adjacent taste and smell.
The most exotic meat I’ve ever eaten has to have been whale in Lofoten or seal in Svalbard. As much as I enjoy Anthony Bourdain’s travel shows, I’m a far cry from being as adventurous as he was. I’ll try most things once – assuming they don’t look back at me with sad, intelligent eyes.
While my mother rarely cooked more than prefab frozen dinners, her mom – my Swedish maternal grandmother, Agnes – made every meal from scratch.
Agnes’s meatballs in creamy gravy with lingonberries and steamed potatoes were to die for. On rare occasions, she would serve yucky dinners, like fish balls or hare steak, both of which I tried but only that once.
I can appreciate all that goes into fine dining, where the sum of many different yet intertwined parts creates a truly memorable experience. I’ve been lucky to have had a few such dinners – meals so well orchestrated you almost feel guilty eating what has been so beautifully composed on your plate.
Though I enjoy almost every kind of meat, fowl, and fish, thankfully, I also love every kind of vegetable, legume, and grain. Except for couscous, which I find to be more closely related to sawdust than something edible. So tasteless and beige.
In the mid-1980s, I worked part-time as a chef and learned a lot about cooking and crafting appealing meals with textures, tastes, aromas, flavors, colors, and composition.
Eventually, I began to look at the process of cooking as something similar to painting, and ever since, I’ve seen it as another of my creative outlets.
I’ve cooked for Charlotte since we first met almost 30 years ago, and for Elle until she got her own place more than six years ago.
On any given week, I would serve Swedish, Mexican, American, Thai, Italian, and Japanese dishes, and none of us left the dining table hungry. Possibly overfed, but never hungry.
I still enjoy cooking, but since Charlotte doesn’t eat meat or fowl and I do, there have been a few occasions when my craving for something to really bite into becomes almost overwhelming.
That happened last night, when I just couldn’t resist frying up a few generous slices of really flavorful pork sausage, which I then topped with a spoonful of Dijon and served with a side of crunchy salad.
Charlotte? I made her a bowl of pasta with spinach and Parmigiano-Reggiano topped with roasted pistachios – proof that love is compromise, and that separate dishes can still feel like the same meal.
In the Works: Safari Book
I’ve been quietly working on a new book project and, as is usual, once there’s a curated compilation of candidate photographs, I’ll get to work on the layout process by deciding on the cover. I realize that to some, this might seem counterintuitive. But after having produced so many books, it’s become a reliable way for me to get seriously involved in a new project.
After selecting several potential cover designs, I typically ask close family and friends to pick their favorites and if possible, motivate their choice. At this stage, before I am too emotionally invested in a book project, I welcome input with an open mind and heart.
For this book, which documents the four safaris I’ve been incredibly fortunate to experience, I felt trepidation as I chose the cover. As this is a pure photography book, the adage of not judging a book by its cover doesn’t hold up. On the contrary, the cover is going to play a defining role in how well the book performs on a store’s increasingly competitive bookshelf.
Fortunately, my ambivalence vanished once I showed my three finalists to someone with considerably more wit and wisdom than I, who made the final choice feel as obvious as a leopard’s spots – which, incidentally, was one of the alternative cover shots.
If memory serves, this scene was captured when the young rhino (lower right) and I locked eyes. It seemed unintimidated by the jeep I was standing on, nor the long, white camera lens I was wielding.
As my invaluable collaborator (who I’ll assume would prefer to continue enjoying anonymity) pointed out, this could be either innocent curiosity or a brief moment of defiance toward its mother or father, seen further up in the image.
We’ll never know.
That mystery is exactly what made this cover the right choice – unlike the others I had contemplated, which felt far too anticipatory – read: boring.
Now that the cover is set, I have a guiding visual plot that will make the process of narrowing down the book’s compilation of safari imagery much less ambiguous.
Swedish Winter
I can’t remember the last time we had a cold spell this long in southern Sweden. Normally Malmö’s winter temperatures hover around the freezing point, with average daily highs in the single digits above 0 °C and lows near 0 °C.
This year has been different – exceptionally cold. In January 2026 alone, there were around 18 days with below-freezing weather, and in the first half of February, another 11, making roughly 29 days of consistent frost so far – way more than what’s typical for this region.
This climate isn’t great for my arthritis, and the sciatica that’s still hanging around certainly doesn’t improve when I’m immobile for too long. I’ve been going to the gym regularly, which helps physically but also makes it easier to stay in a decent headspace.
Having something to look forward to is important as well. It doesn’t have to be anything big – even a short trip will do. Keeping my eyes forward helps me avoid dwelling on whatever isn’t great right now. It’s not a perfect solution, but it has been a good way to get through this prolonged cold spell.
Captured the above photo last night, just after Elle came over for dinner.
Valentine’s Day
I’ve said it before, but it truly bears repeating: finding someone who loves you for who you are – and who, year after year, stays even as the patina of age becomes more visible – is something worth honoring on Valentine’s Day.
It’s easy to talk about love as butterflies or grand gestures. But the kind of love Charlotte and I have shared for nearly 30 years – we met in the fall of 1996 – is something rarer: patience, humor, creativity, and the ability to look past flaws without diminishing the good.
The willingness to listen when I go on and on. To stay when I’m stubborn, sharp-edged, sensitive, or slightly ridiculous. To still want to share the everyday routines, the adventures, and the small details that make up a life.
How lucky I’ve been – and still am.
Charlotte chooses me, again and again, with open eyes and a generous heart.
My Valentine. Every day. All year long.
The above photo was taken earlier today.
Long Train Runnin’
Foamy & Soapy Train Ride
What the hell was I supposed to do? Dip my hands into that filthy toilet bowl?
I had just changed trains, grabbed a dozen handles and railings, pressed buttons, and probably touched a fair number of surfaces of questionable cleanliness. So the very first thing I wanted to do – needed to do – once I got on board for my final train ride for the day was give my hands a proper, thorough scrub. Being the optimist I am, I simply assumed there would be warm water left in the tap in the restroom of car 5 on SJ’s high-speed train to Malmö.
For once, the restroom was unoccupied, though not exactly spotless… Foolishly, I didn’t begin by checking whether there was any water in the tap at all. Instead, I pressed the soap dispenser five or six times, filling my hands with rich, foaming lather. I started washing – rubbing and working the soap into my palms, between my fingers, and every crevice and crevasse I could locate. When I felt the soap had reached every tiny crease and corner, I pressed the red button next to the faucet symbol.
Dead stop. Not a single drip or drop.
So there I stood, somewhere between Alvesta and Älmhult, with foaming hands as white as the Småland wintry forest the train was racing through. Since my hands would almost certainly become even dirtier if I dipped them into the bowl, which had probably been clogged ever since the train left Stockholm, I shook off most of the foam, grabbed a few paper towels, and wiped away much of the lather. Then I walked to carriage 6 and queued up as third in line for that restroom instead. After a while, I was finally able to wash off the remaining soap, which by then had nearly dried.
The moral of the story, naturally, is always to check the water before things get too foamy.
Quick Visit: Göteborg
Unlike Malmö, when I arrived yesterday afternoon, the sun was shining in Göteborg. There was much more snow, and considerably colder temperatures as well. Especially after the sun set. Heading eastward to a – for me – totally new destination today.
Copenhagen: A Cure for the Doldrums
When we woke up yesterday morning to a gloomy, snowy, windy Saturday in February, we made two decisions: Charlotte promised to fry up a tall stack of her delicious pancakes, and we agreed that, despite the crappy weather, we’d still make the day as worthwhile as possible. Said and done – we forced our way through the slush toward Malmö Central Station to catch the Öresund train to our nearest refuge: Copenhagen.
I’d be lying if I didn’t tell ya’ll that one of Malmö’s absolute best qualities is its proximity to the ever-inspiring Danish capital. Technically, it’s just a bridge away from what the Danes like to call “dejlige.” We always get a creative boost when visiting Copenhagen. Danish design and aesthetics permeate almost everything – even when the city is mostly covered in a thick layer of wet, sticky snow like it was yesterday.
We had two goals for our visit: to see the exhibition “Japan Modern Poster” @designmuseumdanmark and then to find a decent café on our way back toward Copenhagen Central Station. When my health app hit 12,500 steps, it was time to rest our legs, eat something, and quench our thirst with a tasty beverage. We accomplished all our missions. We eventually got back home again, having navigated yet another heavy snowstorm on the way from Malmö Central.
Today, here in Västra Hamnen, a thick layer of fresh white snow has once again blanketed everything. Time to dig out the big winter boots once more and surrender to this unusually long and stubborn winter.
PISSED: Post IKEA Sensory Stress Exhaustion Disorder
Against better judgment, I tagged along to IKEA. The day had started so well: an early morning workout, then a rare writing flow – words landing where they should, sentences saying what I meant. It was one of those days when I thought: here is the formula, and I’ll run it again tomorrow. And then I was standing there. In front of a giant sign. With limpöu, translated ad copy:
Borrow Your Trolley Here.
It should have said:
Please Borrow Your Flat Trolley Here – You Will Be Needing It Very Soon.
That’s probably when and where my energy ran out. I’ve clearly reached an age where big-box stores drain me faster than I can say depletion. The noise. The crowds. People stopping dead to contemplate a napkin holder as if it held the answer to life (which, as we in the know already knew is 42).
Seven minutes into yesterday’s IKEA trauma, and my brain was an overheating air fryer ready to shut down. Somewhere past the lighting department, I started looking for a bench. I should’ve brought one of those foldable beach chairs to carry through “the snake,” as we used to call the maze back when I worked for Kamprad & Co. I’d unfold it between storage solutions and textiles while waiting for Charlotte, who is, after all, two years younger.
As we neared self-serve, the existential finale, it hit me how vast the IKEA machine really is: factories in China, India, Mexico, and Poland, all feeding some 500 stores worldwide on an endless loop. And if roughly 75% of the range is oil-based, there must be tankers everywhere, shipping crude to be turned into polypropylene, polyethylene, PVC, ABS, and other plastics, so that we can all buy those insanely practical, stackable, storage solutions with a tight-fitting lid.
So there I stood. Overstimulated. Slightly dizzy. I entered the store with energy, ambition, and self-respect – and left with tealights and other random stuff, and a hum in my head that lingers long after we finally found the car in the parking lot. I guess I’m too old for this shit. And yet, next time will likely be the same – against better judgment.
Feeling Colder
Captured this earlier today on my merry way home from @fitness24seven where I work out, 5:45-7:00 am most Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The temperature on my phone showed ”only” –3 °C (27 °F), but with the gusty wind, the app also made me aware that it would probably feel more like –15 °C (5 °F). Despite it being so cloudy and me being hunkered down to be as aerodynamic as possible, I still noticed how the sky was ablaze with these amazing colors. So the moral of this post is: sometimes beauty shows up exactly when you’re least dressed for it.
Morning Moon Malmö
I woke up three times last night. Not because I had to pee, or for any other reasonable reason. I just did. It’s one of aging’s less talked-about discomforts.
According to the European Sleep Research Society (ESRS), normal aging tends to bring lighter sleep, less deep sleep, and more nighttime awakenings – basically, sleep gets easier to “break” as the years pile up.
Less deep sleep = more wake-ups. And once I’m awake, the brain has an unhelpful talent for escalating awareness – and a hard time calming back down.
Anyway, at 5:37 a.m., I got up, did my morning stuff, and headed out to our local gym, Fitness24Seven, for another Monday-morning hour-long workout.
The moonlit scene above is what I saw on my way back home.
Västra Hamnen – Cold As Ice
February 1. Is it just me, or didn’t January seem a bit elongated? In the middle of a Swedish winter, when the Baltic winds sweep across the Öresund and the mercury drops to levels that I feel are almost inhumanly cold, most people stay tucked away indoors. But for me, looking out across Västra Hamnen, the chill is just another layer that makes this place so incredibly unique.
Living and working here since 2002 has been an extraordinary journey. When we first moved in, the area was still vibrating with the energy of the Bo01 housing expo. The Kockums Crane still stood as a sentinel of our industrial past – a silhouette that would soon be replaced by the twisting grace of the Turning Torso. Since then, I’ve watched this neighborhood evolve from a visionary “City of Tomorrow” into a living, breathing community that never stops reinventing itself.
Västra Hamnen – A Neighborhood as a Muse
As a multidisciplinary creative artist, my work is often a reflection of my surroundings, and when not traveling, this neighborhood has certainly been a tireless muse. There is something about the way the light hits the seawater and bounces off the diverse architecture that demands to be captured. It’s not like I have a choice.
19,000 Passionate Neighbors
One of the most rewarding aspects of my online life is the community we’ve built together. My Facebook page, I Love Västra Hamnen, has grown to over 19,000 passionate followers. I publish images and films there several times a week in an effort to bottle the essence of this place – the storms, the sunsets, and the quiet morning moments. Knowing that thousands of people share that same “neighborhood pride” and find joy in my visual stories is what keeps me heading out with my camera, even on days like today, when the wind feels like it’s carving ice into my soul.
So, friends, stay warm out there, and keep looking for the beauty in the “now” – no matter the temperature.
Surviving the Arctic Winter in Sweden
The Vietnamese family who run the extremely well-stocked grocery store adjacent to the square, however, was open as usual. When the charming older woman at the register met my gaze as I stomped in wearing heavy winter boots, I could see the question in her resigned eyes: What am I doing here, really? Hoi An is pretty nice this time of year…
The store was out of tempeh, so I had to settle for a couple of packs of fried tofu. I also picked up a jar of sesame oil, some soba noodles, and hoisin before biking over to Moderna Museet to see the exhibition by Albanian painter Edi Hila. Interesting motifs from early-1990s Tirana – though perhaps not quite as remarkable as the sheer number of his works might suggest.
https://www.modernamuseet.se/…/sv/utstallningar/edi-hila/
On the ride home to Västra Hamnen, I listened to the latest episode of Philosophers’ Room, where a panel of know-it-alls discussed “the law of the strong.
https://www.sverigesradio.se/avsnitt/den-starkes-ratt-har-den-inte-alltid-gallt
Plenty of interesting perspectives, and of course a lot of focus on Putin and Trump, but also on whether we’ll ever be rid of power-drunk old men and their questionably motivated wars of aggression. The conversation also drifted toward whether those of us living in smaller countries simply have to accept reality and make peace with an existence as a vassal state.
On the way home, I biked over to one of our grocery stores to pick up a few dinner ingredients and caught myself, once again, studying what the customer ahead of me in the checkout line was putting on the conveyor belt. Nearly wiped out when a sudden gust of wind and a patch of ice conspired along the bike path on the way home.
It’ll take a lot for me to head back out today.
I’ll now put on my headphones, cue up the radio station Drone Zone, and keep writing in the book Before I Forget until my stomach starts growling and it’s time to get dinner on the table.
https://somafm.com/player24/station/dronezone
My Love For Time Capsules
This is from an abandoned office not much more than 1 kilometer from where I am writing this in Malmö. It struck me as I saw it flash by in Lightroom that I’ve been semi-subconsciously drawn to unintentional time capsules for several years – abandoned places where time has been preserved not by design, but by neglect, chance, or sudden change.
I keep documenting these time capsules because they carry a particular kind of mystery: rooms left mid-sentence, objects halted in place, quiet traces of human presence without the humans themselves.
They invite curiosity precisely because they refuse to explain themselves, even as they hint at lives interrupted rather than neatly concluded or at least faded out gracefully.
For me, the unintentionally of time capsules do more than fascinate. They hold the tension between what once was and what never got the chance to become – and that gap triggers something both intellectual and visceral: the urge for me to look closer, to record, and to understand what it means to leave without closure.
I don’t think my fixation is accidental. Photography does something similar. It isolates what would otherwise vanish and insists: this mattered. Maybe not forever, but enough to be held onto.
And yes, there’s something personal under this particular surface. As my life has been shaped more by abrupt shifts than gentle transitions – moves, separations, endings that arrived without warning, I rarely got the luxury of easing into change. Instead, I learned to cope afterward, by looking back and reconstructing. Arguably, sometimes lingering a bit too long.
Maybe that’s why I return to the past so often – not out of nostalgia, but because some things were left behind too quickly…
Snowy Winter Walk in Västra Hamnen with Charlotte Raboffl
After last night’s torrential snowfall, Mrs Raboff and I were both eager to feel the soft snow under our boots and hear that deeply satisfying crunch as we walked along the coastline this morning.
There’s something grounding about that sound – like the world briefly agreeing to slow down and behave itself. The sea was steel-grey, the sky the same, but the powdery layer of white along the path made everything feel brighter and lighter. Kinder, even. The wind seemed to hold back a little too – as if it didn’t want to ruin the moment.
The snow won’t last long – it never does down here in the south – but while here, it certainly brightens our otherwise grey winter in a way that feels almost ceremonial. A short-lived upgrade to the everyday.
We didn’t say much during our walk. We didn’t have to. This morning’s snow walk felt perfectly subtitled.
Gym Communication
Clomp, clomp, clomp. Wheeze, wheeze, wheeze. Blah, blah, blah.
When I crawled out of bed around five this morning, groggy and stiff as a plank, it was with slow Frankenstein steps that I shuffled over to the Fitness24Seven gym in the block behind our local supermarket, ICA. I was looking forward to the week’s first workout on home turf. The previous session I’d done at the chain’s branch on Hornsgatan in Stockholm.
I like Fitness24Seven’s concept, where your membership gives you free access to all their roughly 280 gyms in five countries. Last year I trained at ten different gyms in Malmö, Gothenburg, Trollhättan, Stockholm, and Bangkok.
The machines aren’t the same quality as at my old gym, where they have Italian Technogym, but they’re perfectly fine. After all, it’s the muscles that are supposed to do the work – not the machines.
Just like so many other Monday mornings around six in the am, only the middle treadmill was available. To my right ran The Clomper, to my left ran The Wheezer, and on the far end walked The Yapper, who, as so often, was in the middle of yet another incredibly important and very loud phone call with someone.
For me, training is non-negotiable. The medication I take for my arthritis suppresses my immune system so much that I have to keep moving just to have a fighting chance against nasty germs and mischievous viruses. On top of that, exercise keeps the ghosts at a respectful distance, which in turn leaves room for my fuel – creativity.
I usually listen to BBC, Monocle Globalist, Conan O’Brien, or The New Yorker Radio Hour when I work out. But The Yapper’s forty-minute phone call this morning made it hard to hear or focus on anything other than the conversation he was having – a call which, judging by the volume, was clearly of the highest national importance.
When The Yapper isn’t running on the treadmill, I can usually hear him talking and laughing so loudly that he truly deserves his nickname. I’m annoyed with myself for not having more civic courage so early in the morning.
I can live with the obviously flat-footed Clomper, and even though it sometimes sounds like The Wheezer is about to give birth any second, it’s really only The Yapper who manages to sabotage my concentration a bit.
From a social-anthropological point of view, I’m fascinated by how some people seem to be completely filterless and can behave as if they own the gym.
Some of the younger guys think it’s perfectly okay to mark three different machines as “theirs” at the same time. Others have no problem scrolling for several minutes between sets, as if they were at a café and not in the middle of a workout.
Last week, I actually mustered the courage to ask a guy (my age) if he’d be done with his sets soon. He just sat there glaring at his screen when I tried to get to the machine he was occupying. He got visibly irritated and snapped:
“I didn’t know you had booked it.”
I laughed, left him to his screen, and went to another machine without thinking too much more about the slightly odd situation. But clearly, I didn’t let it go completely. On the walk home, I felt like a guy from the “gym police”.
Sometimes I have a hard time understanding how people think when they barrel along in their own little bubble without showing the slightest consideration – or even understanding what you’re talking about when I gently point out that it’s not okay. Maybe I’ve just been to Japan too many times.
In an hour or so, it’s supposed to start snowing. If we’re lucky, it’ll remain for a while. I’m looking forward to some snow. I like the light and the silence a blanket of snow brings with it. The fridge and freezer are reasonably well stocked with food, and in one of the kitchen drawers, I’ve collected five or six cans of Heinz Baked Beans in case we end up completely snowed in here in Malmö.
Back in the late 1980s, when the highway between Kiruna and Riksgränsen was closed due to a snowstorm, you’d call the Swedish Road Administration to check when it would open again. A recorded voice on the authority’s phone line would then say:
“This is the Swedish Road Administration’s automated answering service. The road between Kiruna and Riksgränsen is expected to open in three hours. End of message.”
No timestamp, so we had no idea when the recording had been made. But it was also funny. Communication isn’t always that easy. Not for government agencies – and not for people at the gym…
Stockholm’s Urban Landscapes
I’ve realized that most of my urban photography over the years can be traced back to a persistent obsession with geometry. Which in turn is something I also enjoy as a “subject” when I paint.
Straight lines. Hard angles. Repeating patterns. The way glass, steel, and concrete intersect and hold their ground against sky and light. I don’t think I ever made a conscious decision to photograph “architecture” as such. It just kept happening.
There’s something deeply reassuring about order in my somewhat chaotic world. Cities are loud and messy – yet within all that noise, there’s some kind of order – often retrofitted – doing what it can to accommodate the people who live, work, and move through the always evolving or iterating urban landscape.
Beams align. Facades repeat. Windows stack into grids. Staircases slice diagonals through space. Even the most aggressively modern building still submits, in the end, to mathematics – a subject I’m impossibly poor at understanding, but whose outcomes I can still appreciate and be inspired by.
Over time, my fascination with geometry has become less about documenting details in cities and more about collecting visually appealing, often calming scenes and situations within an urban environment.
Maybe that’s what keeps me coming back. In a life that’s often anything but symmetrical, the cold, hard logic appeals. The calm of things that know exactly what and where they are supposed to be. Much unlike myself.
I’ll continue to photograph geometry in urban landscapes because geometry never gets old – and neither does the small, private satisfaction of framing the mundane in a way that, at least to me, feels interesting. Like these stairs that intrigued me as I walked to catch the 09:05 morning train to Malmö a couple of days ago.
Södermalm & Maria Magdalena Church in Stockholm
In the past 20 years, I’ve stayed at dozens of different hotels all over Stockholm. So it is without any hesitation whatsoever that I can say Södermalm is easily my favorite island to be based on when visiting the capital.
This past visit, I stayed within meters of Maria Magdalena Church captured above. The photograph was taken just a few days ago, on my merry way to enjoy a beer or two with Annika – a dear old friend and, in our youth, a former bartender colleague from Hotel Riksgränsen in Swedish Lapland.
There’s something about Södermalm that always enchants me. One moment I’m weaving past vintage shops and falafel joints on Götgatan, the next I’m up on the cliffs of Mariaberget, watching Riddarfjärden and the old rooftops of Gamla Stan. A view that never gets old. Södermalm has this gift for stitching the ordinary and the quietly spectacular together.
By the time I reached the bar, my shoulders had already dropped a few centimeters. That’s what Söder does to me. It doesn’t try too hard. It doesn’t shout. It just offers a good walk, a good view, multiple places where a good meal can be enjoyed – and the faint but persistent feeling that, if you weren’t already living somewhere else, you could live there quite happily.