Delicious street food along Sukhumvit Road.

Leaving Sukhumvit and Delicious Street Food

Last night marked our farewell feast at the street kitchen beneath the Phrom Phong Skytrain station: wok-fried chili shrimp in coconut milk, small deep-fried fish pancakes in red curry, Pad Thai tofu, a portion of plain boiled white rice, and a couple of ice-filled glasses brimming with cold Chang beer.

Throughout this journey, we’ve indulged in this particular eatery’s culinary pleasures at least eight times. And akin to last night, each dish has been an extraordinary delight.

While we’ve predominantly stuck to our tried-and-true favorites, we’ve also ventured into the more peculiar corners of the restaurant’s immense menu.

Courteous and swift service, impeccably cooked dishes, reasonable prices—all set within a splendidly chaotic ambiance. What’s not to like?

Tomorrow we migrate to the Chao Phraya River.

Beyond Benjasiri Park, where I spent a warm and sweaty hour practicing basketball shots yesterday afternoon, we won’t mourn the ceaseless tumult and overbearing exhaust fumes hovering along Sukhumvit Road and its many side streets (soi).

The air quality in central Bangkok is notoriously dismal—save for the neighborhoods on both banks of the Chao Phraya.

In addition to our imminent relocation to a more recently opened and significantly more inspiring hotel venue along the Royal River, we will also enjoy a considerable upgrade in the form of a modern gym, a more expansive pool, a grander breakfast buffet, and, fingers crossed, an improvement in sleep quality.

The correlation between mattress quality and sleep quality hasn’t occurred to the folks that decorate guest rooms at most Asian hotels. Our bodies have been off and on sore throughout this trip.

I can’t speak for other sexagenarians, but the older I get, the more paramount a restful night’s sleep becomes. That said, having hip pain from an overly firm mattress is a quintessential first-world woe, I know, I know!

Another boon of bidding adieu to the Sukhumvit area is the prospect of exploring Thonburi, the district housing our new hotel, and the section of Bangkok opposite Chinatown on the Chao Phraya River’s west bank. This is where the original capital of Siam was established during the 500-year Ayutthaya kingdom.

Adjacent to our new abode stands the colossal Millennium Hilton and a petite wooden pier, offering a swift ferry ride to Chinatown and a nearby skytrain or subway station.